{"id":825,"date":"2019-08-27T22:45:28","date_gmt":"2019-08-27T22:45:28","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/greenmanpublishing.com\/?p=825"},"modified":"2019-10-09T05:05:48","modified_gmt":"2019-10-09T05:05:48","slug":"shallot","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/greenmanpublishing.com\/index.php\/2019\/08\/27\/shallot\/","title":{"rendered":"Shallot"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Allium<\/em> <\/em>cepa<\/em> <\/em>aggregatum<\/em> <\/em>group<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Introduction<\/strong>: Some gourmets consider the shallot to be the most refined of all\nthe Allium family and it certainly is milder and more delicately flavored than\nonion or garlic. It is the commonest kind of multiplier onion, a group that\nalso includes potato onions and Egyptian onions. Each plant produces a cluster\nof up to 10 or so bulbs, each up to 2\u02dd in diameter and connected at their bases.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ease\nof growing<\/strong>:<\/strong> The shallot has similar\ngrowing requirements as the onion, though it is easier to grow, as you don\u2019t\nhave to worry so much about day length. You can grow it as an annual, or you\ncan leave it in the ground\nyear round.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Crop\nvalue<\/strong>: Shallot is a very dependable crop for\nthe home gardener and I highly recommend it. It is easy to grow, tasty, doesn\u2019t\nrequire much space, is quite productive and doesn\u2019t take a lot of work to grow.\nThe bulbs also store\nbetter than onions.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Climate<\/strong>: Shallots prefer the same climate as the onion, which isn\u2019t\nsurprising as they are simply another type of onion. They like cool weather (50\n– 70\u00b0F) for growth and slightly warmer 70 – 80\u00b0F (and dry) weather for bulbing\nand ripening. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Like onions they are day length sensitive, with long days\ntriggering bulbing. I didn\u2019t realize this for a long time though, because I\nalways plant in fall, so they have plenty of time to grow before day length\ntriggers bulbing. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Day length isn\u2019t such a big issue because they are perennial and\nin the ground for a long time. As long as each shoot has at least 4 or 5 leaves\nyou can <\/p>\n\n\n\n

rest easy and happily watch them bulb up when they are ready. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nutritional content<\/strong>: Like the onion they are rich in vitamin C, potassium, calcium and\na variety of beneficial\nphytochemicals.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
About Shallot<\/strong>  
Perennial
Hardiness zones: 3 – 10
Soil temp: 50 (60 – 65) 75\u00b0F
Seed viability: 1 – 4 years
Yield: 1 – 4 lb sq ft (1 lb sets gives 5 – 7 lb bulbs)
Yield per plant: 2 – 8 oz
Days to harvest: 90 – 120 days
Growing temp: 50 (60 – 70) 75\u00b0F
Plants per person 5 – 10   <\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table>\n\n\n\n

Soil<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

pH 6.0 (6.5) 7.0 <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Shallots prefer the same kind of soil as\nonion, well-drained, rich, loose and moisture retentive. However they will do\nfine in a less than ideal soil. It does need to be well-drained though, as they\nmay rot over the winter if it is too wet. If your soil isn\u2019t very well-drained,\nyou should grow them in raised beds, or on ridges of soil.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Soil preparation<\/strong>: Incorporate 2\u02dd of compost or aged manure into the top 6\u02dd of\nsoil, to supply nutrients and aid in moisture retention. This is particularly\nimportant if your soil is light and doesn\u2019t hold water well. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

You may\nwant to add colloidal phosphate to supply phosphorus and wood ashes or\ngreensand for potassium. You could also use a standard fertilizer mix, though\nthey don\u2019t need a lot of nitrogen.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

If the soil is very acidic add lime to raise the pH.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

 Planning<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Where<\/strong>: Shallots don\u2019t take up much space, so it\u2019s fairly easy to find a\nplace for them. If you are growing them as an annual, put them in a raised bed.\nIf you are growing them as a perennial, put them in any vacant spot where they\nwon\u2019t be in the way. You can even plant them singly around the garden. Just\nremember that they need full\nsun.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When: <\/strong>Depending upon where you live, shallots\ncan be either planted in fall or spring. You might even plant at both times, as\nextra insurance. Spring planted bulbs are also less likely to bolt.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Spring<\/strong>: The bulbs are quite hardy and can be\nplanted 4 – 6 weeks before the last frost date (they actually prefer to grow in\ncool soil). Starting early is important to give them as long a growing season\nas possible before they bulb. They grow well in the long days of spring and\nearly summer, and should be ready to harvest in mid to late summer. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Fall<\/strong>: In mild climates they are usually started in fall at the same\ntime as garlic. If winter isn\u2019t too harsh this is generally the best way to go\nand results in bigger bulbs. A deep mulch can help them to survive severe cold\n(though watch for mice getting in there and eating the bulbs). Fall planted bulbs are more likely to bolt than\nspring planted ones, which may be an issue with some types.   <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Planting<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Vegetative<\/strong>: When shallots are grown from bulbs they are\nplanted directly in the garden. Plant them so the pointed tip of the bulb just\nshows above ground level and the flat end is down. If they somehow work their\nway out of ground (birds often have something to do with this), just put them back in.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Seed<\/strong>: Seed grown\nshallots are usually grown in the same way as onion, which means starting them\nindoors as transplants. See Onions<\/strong> for how to do\nthis.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Once you have raised your first crop of\nbulbs from seed, you can start propagating them vegetatively.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Spacing<\/strong>:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Beds: 4\u02dd- 6\u02dd – 8\u02dd apart<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Rows: 4 – 6\u02dd apart in rows 9\u02dd apart<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Care<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Weed<\/strong>: As with the related onions, shallots have\nquite sparse foliage and are vulnerable to weed competition. They should be\nweeded regularly, preferably by hand, as the bulbs are easily damaged (be very\ncareful if using a hoe near the plants). A mulch can be a big help in keeping\nweeds down. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Water<\/strong>: Shallots are somewhat drought tolerant, but need evenly moist\nsoil for best production. Don\u2019t let the soil dry out too much as it can reduce\nthe final yield.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Fertilization<\/strong>: If your soil is poor give the plants a foliar feed of compost\ntea when the shoots are about 6\u02dd high. Feed them again about a month later.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mulch<\/strong>: A couple of inches of straw mulch may be applied when the shoots\nhave appeared. This helps to keep down weeds and reduces the rate at which the\nsoil dries out in hot weather.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Unearthing<\/strong>: Shallots like to grow half out of the soil. If the bulbs get\npartially buried, scrape away the soil to expose them almost down to the roots.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

 Problems<\/strong><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pests<\/strong>: Shallots are bothered by the same pests as onions (thrips, onion\nmaggot, slugs and snails, gophers, leafhoppers), but are usually relatively\npest free. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Disease<\/strong>: Generally shallots are quite trouble free,\nbut they can be afflicted by all of the same diseases as onions, as well as\ndamping off, downy mildew, rust and more. One of the commonest problems is bulb\nrot caused by cold, wet soil. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Bolting<\/strong>: Some types of shallots may\noccasionally try to flower. If this happens cut off the entire flower stalk\npromptly, as it takes energy from the bulbs (the vegetative types can\u2019t produce\nviable seed anyway).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Harvesting<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

When<\/strong>: The bulbs are ready to harvest when the tops have died down,\nusually in July or August.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

You can harvest the green tops at any time for use like scallions.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

How<\/strong>: Pull the whole bulb clusters (you can almost just pick them up\noff the ground) and leave in a warm, dry, shady place for a few days to dry. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Storage<\/strong>: Shallots\nkeep very well (some varieties better than others). They generally last longer\nthan onions, and were once saved until the store of bulb onions had gone.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

They keep best in a cool dry place, at\n32 – 50\u00b0F and 60% humidity. Don\u2019t keep them in the fridge for very long, as it\nis too humid (too much moisture can encourage sprouting or mold).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Don\u2019t break up the bulbs until you are going to use them, as it\nmay start them sprouting. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Seed saving<\/strong>: There are actually two types of shallots, those that are\npropagated from seed and those that aren\u2019t. The latter don\u2019t produce fertile\nflowers and so can\u2019t produce seed. With these you simply save some of the bulbs for replanting. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

If your plants produce viable seed you can save it in the same way\nas for onion. The flowers are cross-pollinated by insects, but this isn\u2019t\nusually a problem as there are no close wild relatives and most people don\u2019t\nlet their onions flower. Seed production just happens, all you have to do is\nnot stop it. Collect the seed from the dry head and dry it thoroughly before\nstoring. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The seed doesn\u2019t remain viable for very long, often only a couple of years, so don\u2019t try and keep it too long.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Unusual\ngrowing ideas<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Greens<\/strong>: You can grow shallots as a source of scallions. The best way to\ndo this is to have a permanent colony of the plants (or small patches in\ndifferent parts of the garden). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Interplant<\/strong>: You could plant a low growing \/ fast maturing intercrop in\nbetween the rows of shallots, to make the space more productive. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Containers<\/strong>: Shallots do\nquite well in containers, so long as they are deep enough.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Indoor greens<\/strong>: Shallots can be grown indoors in winter to supply green onions. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Varieties<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Though many garden centers simply sell \u201cshallots\u201d, there is\nactually a considerable difference between the different types. These differ in\ncolor, flavor, keeping qualities, the day length they require for bulbing and\nhow you grow them. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

You could try growing shallots that are sold for food, just be\naware that there is some danger that the bulbs may contain virus disease. You\nwill have the best chance of success with bulbs that were locally grown and are\norganic. Chemically grown bulbs are commonly treated to retard sprouting and\nwill often rot before they sprout. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Types of shallot<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The information on shallots is often contradictory and confusing.\nIt can be difficult to know what is a shallot and what is not a shallot. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

True\nshallots <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

These are only propagated vegetatively and can\u2019t be grown from\nseed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

French Red<\/strong> – This is the most commonly available type\n(or group of types). It has pink flesh and does better than the gray type in\nsouthern areas. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

French\nGray (Griselle) <\/strong>–\nThe French consider this the one true shallot, with the one true shallot\nflavor. If you want to grow it you will probably have to go on-line and\nhunt it down. It doesn\u2019t keep as well as the other types (only 4 – 6 months).\nAlso it often\ndoesn\u2019t do well in more southerly areas. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

I\u2019m not sure whether the following are true shallots (the French\nwould probably say not), but they are usually propagated from bulbs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Picasso<\/strong> – This\nDutch type has red brown skin and pink flesh.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Yellow\nmoon<\/strong> – A Dutch\nvariety with yellow skin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Seed\ngrown shallots<\/strong> Vegetative propagation is fine for the gardener, but commercial growers\nprefer to grow from a small quantity of easily stored seed, rather than a large\nvolume of perishable bulbs. Consequently there is a whole range of commercial\nvarieties (usually hybrids) for growing from seed. The big shallots you see in\nsupermarkets are this type. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Shallot connoisseurs consider these to be\njust a small perennial onion, rather than a shallot. Whatever they are they are\nstill a useful crop that is well worth growing. They include:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Picador<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Saffron<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Conservor<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kitchen use<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Shallots are an essential ingredient in French cuisine and they\nspecify certain types for certain recipes. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Shallots work great if you only need a small quantity of onion. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The greens are very\ngood too.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Potato Onion<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Allium cepa aggregatum<\/em> group<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Introduction<\/strong>: The potato onion is a type of multiplier onion (like shallot)\nthat is thought to have originated in Scandinavia. It has the same growth\nhabits as the shallot and is cultivated in exactly the same ways. The major\ndifference is that it produces much larger bulbs (up to 3\u02dd in diameter), so is\nactually more useful. It doesn\u2019t have any connection to the potato except that\nit is usually propagated vegetatively (which is a pretty slender connection). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Growing potato onions is ideally suited to home growing, as it is\nso simple as to be almost foolproof. You simply plant a bulb and harvest a\nclump of bulbs! <\/p>\n\n\n\n

This was a popular crop plant in America when people grew their\nown food and many families handed it down, mother to daughter for generations\n(the very definition of an heirloom crop). Use of this plant declined\ndrastically when people stopped growing much of their own food, to the point\nwhere it is now almost forgotten. It is even difficult to find bulbs to plant. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Crop\nvalue<\/strong>: If the value of a plant is indicated\nby the number of pages written about it, then I should write a lot more about\nthis one. However most of what I have written about growing onion and shallot\nis also relevant here, which means this entry is fairly short. Nevertheless\nthis is an outstanding perennial food crop (probably the best overlooked one)\nand really should be grown by everyone.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ease\nof growing<\/strong>: In many ways this is the easiest of\nall the onions to grow. It has the advantage of vegetative propagation as in\nthe shallot, but produces bigger bulbs. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Like other onions the potato onion is day length sensitive, so\nshould be planted in fall or early spring. This gives it plenty of time to grow\nbefore the appropriate day length triggers bulbing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

How\nthey grow<\/strong>: The bulb send up several shoots and grows into a cluster of green\nplants. Eventually the old bulb shrinks away and each shoot in the cluster\nforms a new bulb on the soil surface. Generally each plant will produce 3 – 5\nbulbs, but sometimes there is as many as 12. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

As a rule of thumb you can expect to harvest\nat least five times what you plant, which should give you some idea how much\nyou need to plant (and save) to supply yourself with onions for the year. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

I have read that if you plant a large bulb it\nwill make a cluster of many small ones, whereas if you plant a small bulb it\nwill make one large one. I can\u2019t verify this though, because I haven\u2019t paid\nthat close attention (I only have a short attention span). If it is true then\nit means you should plant a number of big and small bulbs every year. The small\nones will then grow into big ones for eating, while the big ones will grow into\nsmall ones for replanting.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Soil<\/strong>:\nSame as for onion and shallot.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Fertilization<\/strong>: Same as for onion and shallot. It doesn\u2019t need a lot of\nnitrogen.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When\nto plant<\/strong>: <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Fall<\/strong>: In milder climates the bulbs are often planted in fall, along\nwith garlic and shallot. As the plants then have longer to grow they should\ngive you a bigger harvest (though this doesn\u2019t always happen). Another\nadvantage is that if you plant in fall, you don\u2019t have to store them over the\nwinter. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

In cold climates fall planted bulbs might not\nsurvive a particularly cold winter, so there is some risk. Fall planting also\nencourages bolting, whereas spring planting doesn\u2019t. This is good if you want\nto save seed, bad if you don\u2019t.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Spring<\/strong>: In colder climates spring planting makes the most sense,\nespecially if you don\u2019t want them to bolt (which takes energy from the bulbs).\nYou can plant as soon as the ground can be worked in spring, which may be a\nmonth before the last frost (or even earlier in some cases). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Spring planted bulbs usually mature a little later than those\nplanted in fall. If you have enough bulbs you could plant at both times, to\nspread out the harvest and provide a little extra insurance against loss. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Spacing<\/strong>: <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Beds<\/strong>: Space the plants 6 – 8\u02dd apart in wide beds. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Rows<\/strong>: Space the plants 3 – 4\u02dd apart in the rows, with 18 – 24\u02dd between\nthe rows. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Planting<\/strong>: Plant as you would a shallot, so the bulb is just covered with\nsoil (some people plant deeper in fall for better protection from the cold).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Growing\nfrom seed<\/strong>: The potato onion can be started from\nseed quite easily. The difficult part is finding seed to plant, as they don\u2019t\noften produe it. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The disadvantage of vegetative propagation is that over the years\nbulbs can get infected with virus diseases, which can result in small (though perfectly usable) bulbs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When plants are grown from seed they can\nproduce big, beautiful virus free bulbs, 3 – 4\u02dd in diameter, in their first\nyear.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Plants grown from seed will also show a lot more genetic variation\nbecause they aren\u2019t all clones of the same plant. There may be differences in\ncolor, size, shape and bulbing habit. You can simply choose bulbs of those you\nlike best for replanting the following year and propagate them vegetatively. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Care<\/strong>: These are surprisingly tough plants. I have had small\nplants appear to die in hot dry conditions, only to reappear and produce bulbs\nthe following summer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Watering<\/strong>: Water the plants regularly while they are growing rapidly. Stop\nwatering when the bulb forms and the leaves start to turn yellow, so the neck\ncan dry out.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mulching<\/strong>: In cold climates overwintering bulbs will benefit from the\nprotection of a thick mulch. This should be removed after all hard frosts are\npast, so the soil can warm up.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Problems<\/strong>: The only major difficulty I have found with potato onion is\nfinding seeds or bulbs to plant. It is a lot easier to grow than it is to find.\nThis is unfortunate because if more people could try it, then it would be much\nmore popular. This would make it more available, so even more people could try\nit. Fortunately it is gradually becoming easier to find.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Insurance<\/strong>: The problem with growing perennial vegetables such as this is if\nsomething goes wrong you can lose everything. One year all of my stored potato\nonion bulbs were eaten by wood rats, fortunately I had overlooked a few bulbs\nin the ground. These produced seed and I was able to start over again. Avoid\nthis by encouraging friends and neighbors to grow it too. This provides\ninvaluable insurance against loss. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Another form of insurance is to plant some of your bulbs in fall\nand some in spring. Then if your fall bulbs meet an unanticipated fate, you\nhaven\u2019t lost everything.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Seed\nsaving<\/strong>: Many people say it is hard to get\npotato onions to flower and produce seed, but I haven\u2019t found this to be a\nproblem. In fact my fall planted bulbs produce seed so readily I have had to\nstart spring planting too.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

If a bulb produces seed it will use all of its energy for that and\nwill shrivel and become pretty much inedible.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Harvest<\/strong>: <\/p>\n\n\n\n

When<\/strong>: This is a fairly short season crop and a spring planting can be\nharvested in late summer, when the leaves start to die back.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n

How<\/strong>: The mature bulbs sit on the ground and can often be simply\npicked up. If the soil is hard you may have to loosen it with a fork first.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Curing<\/strong>: After harvest you need to keep the bulbs in a dry place to cure\n(just as you would other onions). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Storage<\/strong>: Store your best bulbs in a cool, dark, rodent-proof place (this\nis especially important for any bulbs you will use for replanting). Potato\nonions store exceptionally well and will often stay good for up to 12 months. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Of course you need to set aside a portion of your crop for\nreplanting the following year. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Varieties<\/strong>: A few varieties do exist, but think yourself lucky if you can\nfind any potato onions at all. Even if you find somewhere to get the bulbs, you\nmay have another problem in that they are only usually available at the end of\nthe growing season (around October) and often sell out quickly. If you find\nsomewhere that sells them it is a good idea to order early.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

If you grow them from seed you will find quite a bit of variation\nin each plant and can create your own varieties. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kitchen use<\/strong>: You can use the bulbs and green leaves as you would those of onions.\nThe bulbs will be different sizes so you can choose the size you need for\nwhatever dish you are cooking.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The potato onion is nice when fried with potatoes (which is\nanother very slender connection between the two).<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Allium cepa aggregatum group Introduction: Some gourmets consider the shallot to be the most refined of all the Allium family and it certainly is milder and more delicately flavored than … Read More<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":1705,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[239],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-825","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-perennial-vegetables","entry"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/greenmanpublishing.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/shallot.jpg","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/greenmanpublishing.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/825","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/greenmanpublishing.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/greenmanpublishing.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/greenmanpublishing.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/greenmanpublishing.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=825"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/greenmanpublishing.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/825\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2165,"href":"https:\/\/greenmanpublishing.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/825\/revisions\/2165"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/greenmanpublishing.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1705"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/greenmanpublishing.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=825"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/greenmanpublishing.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=825"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/greenmanpublishing.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=825"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}