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<\/figure>\n\n\n\nThere are a couple of drawback to soil blocks, the biggest\nbeing that you need a special soil block making press to make them (these come\nin several sizes, but the 2\u201d one is most useful). Another is that the process\nof making them is relatively slow. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Block molds<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n To make soil blocks you need a special block mold to compress the mix. These are available in several sizes, though you only really need the 2\u02dd one (I have a \u00be\u201d one too, but never use it.) There is also a large 4\u02dd block mold, but it\u2019s pretty expensive, so I just use recycled 4\u02dd pots. If they Aren\u2019t ready to go outside. Commercial vegetable growers in Europe use automated block making machines that do everything, right down to adding the seed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Sowing mix<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n A mix for soil blocks differs from other mixes, in that it\nhas to be cohesive enough to hold together when ejected from the mold. They\nalso usually contain more nutrients. Here are three simple \u201crecipes\u201d that work\nwell:<\/p>\n\n\n\n 2 parts peat (+ lime)<\/p>\n\n\n\n 1 part soil<\/p>\n\n\n\n 1 part vermiculite<\/p>\n\n\n\n 1 part compost (or leaf mold)<\/p>\n\n\n\n 1 part soil<\/p>\n\n\n\n 4 parts peat (+ lime)<\/p>\n\n\n\n 2 parts sand<\/p>\n\n\n\n 1 part soil<\/p>\n\n\n\n 1 part compost<\/p>\n\n\n\n <\/p>\n\n\n\n Making the blocks:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Measure out the\npre-moistened ingredients and mix them together in a plastic tub. You wanta\nvery wet mix with the consistency of freshly mixed cement or mud, so add about\n4 parts mix to 1 part water and stir thoroughly.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The key to making soil blocks lies in the moisture level of\nthe mix. If you don\u2019t add enough water the mix will be so dry it won\u2019t fill up\nthe mold properly, or won\u2019t eject. If you add too much water the mix may drop\nout of the mold prematurely, or the block may collapse when ejected. It\u2019s not a\nbad idea to save a little dry mix for the not unlikely event that you make it\ntoo wet initially. Some gardeners leave the prepared mix for an hour or so\nbefore making blocks to make sure the mix has absorbed all the water it can\nhold.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Fill the mold by pressing it into the mix 2 or 3 times. You\nwill know when it\u2019s full because surplus liquid will ooze out of the top. It\nhelps if the mixture is in a 5 gallon bucket so it can be deep. Then you can\nfill the mold with one press by rocking from side to side and pressing hard.\nScrape the mold across the top of the container (or with a trowel) to remove\nexcess mix, put the mold on the chosen base and eject the block carefully.\nRinse the mold in a bucket of water as necessary to stop the blocks sticking to\nthem (some people do it every time).<\/p>\n\n\n\n Place the blocks close together to minimize hiding places\nfor slugs and earwigs, but not so close that they are touching. Once the blocks\nare out of the mold you should handle them as little as possible, as they\naren\u2019t very strong. The block becomes more cohesive as the growing roots of the\nplant bind it together and eventually you can handle it quite roughly without\nit falling apart.<\/p>\n\n\n\n A receptacle for the blocks<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n The best receptacle for holding the blocks is a flat with\none long side missing (this makes it easier to slide the blocks in and out).\nPut the open ends of two trays together to reduce evaporation on the exposed\nedge. I have also used boards, plastic serving trays and odd scraps of plywood.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Planting<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Sow the block by dropping the appropriate number of seeds\n(usually 2 – 3) into the indentation on top. Cover the seed by pinching the\nindentation closed, or by covering with a little peat moss (or just leave them\nopen and be careful to keep the block moist). For seeds with very poor\ngermination you might use the small \u00be\u02dd blocks (to save materials) and only pot\non the best ones.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The blocks don\u2019t really need watering for several days, but\nI like to mist the surface to wet the seeds thoroughly.<\/p>\n\n\n\n As the growing roots of the plant (or plants) bind it\ntogether, the block gets more cohesive and eventually you can handle it quite\nroughly without it falling apart.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Watering<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Soil blocks must be\nwatered conscientiously because the soil isn\u2019t continuous and water can\u2019t move\nfrom one area to another. The blocks have a lot of surface area for evaporation\nand if you don\u2019t give them enough water they will gradually dry out over time.\nAs with plug trays the blocks at the edge of the trays tend to dry out faster\nthan the rest, especially if they aren\u2019t in an enclosed container. If the\nblocks start to dry out they gradually get harder and harder, eventually to the\npoint where seedling roots can\u2019t penetrate their surfaces.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Blocks can be bottom watered by immersing them in a shallow\npan of water and allowing them to soak up as much as they need. You can reduce\nthe frequency of watering by setting them on capillary matting (this can be\nimprovised from burlap or carpet padding).<\/p>\n\n\n\n Pricking out<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Normally you don\u2019t, the plants stay in the 2\u02dd blocks until\ntheir roots start to protrude from the sides of the block and then they go\ndirectly into the soil. The only times you may need prick out soil blocks is\nwhen when growing larger plants such as tomatoes or Cucurbits. If the weather\noutside remains too cool for warm weather crops, they can be potted up into 4\u02dd\npots.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"![\"\"](\"https:\/\/greenmanpublishing.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/04\/soil-blocks1.jpg\")
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