Introduction<\/strong>: The winter squash and pumpkins belong to various species,\nincluding C. pepo, C. mixta, C. moschata<\/em> and C. maxima<\/em>. They are\ngrown in pretty much the same ways as the summer squash (some types are\nactually the same species), so if I don\u2019t mention something here it is because\nI already covered it\nthere.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Winter squash get their name because they\nwere the squash you ate during the winter (even though you grew them in\nsummer).<\/p>\n\n\n\n Nutritional content<\/strong>: The fruits are rich in complex carbohydrates (180 calories \/\nlb), beneficial fiber, vitamins A, several B\u2019s (including folate) and C. They\nalso contain copper, iron, magnesium, potassium and zinc. Some are also a good\nsource of antioxidants and other phytonutrients. They contain about 150\ncalories per pound.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The seeds are rich in protein and beneficial oils and contain\nabout 2500 calories per pound. This could mean the seeds inside the pumpkin\ncontain more energy than all the rest of it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Ease of growing:<\/strong> Winter squash\nare easy to grow if the weather is warm and they aren\u2019t attacked by squash vine\nborers or hordes of squash bugs, all of which can make life difficult.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Once established these vigorous and fast growing plants can\ncompete with any weeds, so long as their roots are in good soil and they are well fed and watered. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Crop value<\/strong>: Winter squash can be a valuable plant for those aiming for\ngreater food independence. They produce two useful foods, the flesh of the\nfruit and highly nutritious edible seeds. They are easy plants to grow, quite\nproductive (for the amount of work they require) and easy to store. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Winter squash do require quite a lot of space, but they\nare willing to share it with other plants. Native\nAmericans traditionally grew squash with corn and beans in a\npolyculture they called the three sisters. This is a good space saving idea, as\nthey produce almost as well as when growing alone. See Three Sisters<\/strong> in Corn<\/strong> for more on this.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Planning<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Where<\/strong>: Winter squash grow to be large sprawling vines, so don\u2019t plant\nthem in the middle of the intensive garden. The best place for them is out on\nthe edge of the garden where they can run off into unused space without causing\ntrouble. If you don\u2019t have this option they will take up a lot less space if\ngrown vertically on trellises or cages. Of course they will then require extra\nwork to grow (and may create shade). <\/p>\n\n\n\n If you plan on\ngrowing a lot of winter squash you will also need somewhere to store them.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Planting<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Transplants<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Starting inside<\/strong>: Winter squash are often started indoors to get a few extra weeks\nof growing time (which can be important in cool climates). The naked seeded\nvarieties of pumpkin rot easily unless given ideal conditions and so are\nusually started indoors. See Summer Squash<\/strong> for more on\nthis.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Direct sowing<\/strong>: You only need to plant winter squash once in a year, so do it\nproperly. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Hills<\/strong>: The traditional method of growing squash is in hills, which are\nsmall mounds. Prepare the hill by digging a hole 24\u02dd wide by 12\u02dd deep and half\nfilling it with compost (line it with a gopher basket if necessary). Then\nreturn the soil to the hole to create a low mound with a depression on top.\nPlant 4 – 6 seeds (\u00bd – 2\u02dd deep depending on how warm the soil is) in each hill\nand thin to the best 2 or 3 when they have all germinated. <\/p>\n\n\n\n In hot dry situations hills don\u2019t work so well, as they tend to\ndry out quickly. In this situation you may find it best to flatten the hills\nout, or make them into slight depressions (use the same process though). Then\nany irrigation water will moves toward the plants, rather than draining away\nfrom them. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Spacing<\/strong>: Winter squash hills are usually spaced 4 – 6 feet apart. The\nexact distance depending on the variety and the fertility of the soil. <\/p>\n\n\n\n If the plants are to be grown up supports they can be planted\ncloser together, perhaps as close as 30\u02dd apart. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Care<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Weed<\/strong>: Once the plants get going they are vigorous enough to look after themselves. You need to keep the young plants weeded though.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Water<\/strong>: Winter squash are fairly drought tolerant, but do better if the\nsoil is kept evenly moist, especially in dry weather. <\/p>\n\n\n\n The big leaves of these plants wilt very\neasily in hot weather, but recover equally easily when the temperature drops.\nIf they don\u2019t it means they need water (or you have a problem with pests or\ndisease). <\/p>\n\n\n\n Fertilization<\/strong>: If your soil isn\u2019t very fertile you may want to feed the plants\nevery 3 weeks with compost tea\nor liquid kelp.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Pruning<\/strong>: About a month before frost is due, pinch back the growing tips.\nThis ensures the plants put all of their energy into ripening the fruit they\nalready have and won\u2019t start any more. <\/p>\n\n\n\n To get larger fruit you simply limit the number of fruit they\nproduce. Do this by pinching off unwanted female flowers and small fruit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Problems <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Frost protection<\/strong>: These tender plants will be killed by freezing temperatures. If\nan early frost threatens\ngive them protection by covering with frost blankets or mulch. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Pests and diseases<\/strong>: They are bothered by the same pests and diseases as the summer\nsquash, but slightly less so. Squash vine borers seem to prefer C. pepo species to the others. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Harvesting<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n When<\/strong>: Winter squash must be fully ripe for optimal flavor and keeping\nqualities. It takes 2 – 3 months from pollination to full ripeness (up to 4 months for pumpkins). <\/p>\n\n\n\n The fruits are normally gathered after the\nskin turns dull and the dry stem snaps easily. For good storage properties the\nskin must be too tough to dent with a fingernail. If they are not fully mature\nthey won\u2019t store well. The fruits must also be picked before frost does any damage.<\/p>\n\n\n\n How<\/strong>: Cut the ripe fruit from the vine, leaving about 6\u02dd of stem attached.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Storage<\/strong>: Cure for 2 weeks in a warm place (80 – 90\u00b0F) and then store at\naround 50 – 60\u00b0F and 60 – 70% humidity. They may last 6 months or more in\nstorage, which is why they were once so important for self-sufficient farmers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Seed saving<\/strong>: This is the same as for summer squash. It takes time for the\nfruit to ripen properly so allow plenty of time for them to mature before\nfrost.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Unusual growing ideas<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Three Sisters<\/strong>: Winter squash are the third sister (the others are corn and\nbeans) in this Native American polyculture. See Corn<\/strong> for more on\nthis.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Volunteers<\/strong>: Squash occasionally volunteer and produce healthy young\nseedlings. Unfortunately you probably don\u2019t know if they crossed with anything\nand may end up with a pretty\nstrange fruit (of course you can try eating it anyway).<\/p>\n\n\n\n Screen<\/strong>: You can train the vigorous climbing\nvarieties along a wire fence to make a deciduous screen.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Giant fruit<\/strong>: To grow giant show pumpkins plant several seeds in a hill made\nfrom almost pure compost and thin to the best plant. Feed weekly with manure\ntea or liquid kelp and allow only one fruit to develop on each plant. You could\nallow three to grow if you just want big ones for your own use.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Signature<\/strong>: You can scratch your name on a squash or pumpkin and it will get\nbigger as the fruit matures.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Soil cleanup<\/strong>: These plants are very efficient at absorbing polycyclic aromatic\nhydrocarbons (such as benzene) from the soil. If you grow the plants and then\nremove them, you can remove these contaminants from the soil. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Varieties<\/strong><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Most winter squash are of the sprawling vining type, though there\nare some bush varieties that require less space. <\/p>\n\n\n\n The fruits vary greatly in their eating qualities; some are\nexcellent and some are rather bland. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Winter squash (and pumpkins) belong to several different species:<\/p>\n\n\n\n Cucurbita maxima<\/em> – These large vines have very big rounded leaves and soft hairy stems. They can be distinguished from C. moschata<\/em> because the leaves are rougher in texture and their margins are more ragged. Also the stem on the fruit is swollen. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Banana\nSquash<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Hubbard\nSquash<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Turban\nSquash<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Small\nPumpkins<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Buttercup, Marina di Chioggia, Queensland Blue, Blue Hubbard, Red Kuri. <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n <\/p>\n\n\n\n Cucurbita moschata<\/em> – Another large spreading plant, the leaves are softer than the above and more entire. The flowers have large sepals. The stem of the fruit is 5 sided and distinctly flared. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Butternut\nSquash<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Crookneck\nSquash<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Butternut, Chirimen, Musquee de Provence, Ponca <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n <\/p>\n\n\n\n Cucurbita mixta <\/em>– <\/strong> This species resembles C. moschata<\/em> (some people say it is the same) but the leaf tips are more rounded and the 5 sided fruit stem doesn\u2019t flare out as much. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Green Striped Cushaw, Tennessee Sweet Potato<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n <\/p>\n\n\n\n Cucurbita pepo<\/em> – This species includes the summer squash varieties as well as several interesting winter types. It is easily distinguished by its prickly stems (all the others have smooth stems), prickly lobed leaves and the hard angular stem on the fruit. They are more vulnerable to squash vine borers than other types. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Summer Squash<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Golden\nAcorn<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Spaghetti\nSquash<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Table\nQueen Squash<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Pie\nPumpkins<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Delicata, Royal Acorn, Table Queen, Spaghetti Squash<\/strong> (used like spaghetti), Lady Godiva <\/strong>(naked seeded)<\/p>\n\n\n\n Immature acorn squash can be picked and used like summer squash. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Kitchen use<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n The mature fruits were once an important winter food in some areas.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Butternut Squash are commonly used to make commercial \u201cpumpkin pie\u201d filling.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Squash flowers can be dipped in batter and fried.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The seeds are all edible and may be roasted at 160\u00b0F for 20\nminutes. The naked seeded types are most useful as they don\u2019t need shelling.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" About Winter Squash<\/strong>
Seed facts<\/strong>
Germ temp: 65 (80 – 95) 100\u00b0F
Germination time: 3 – 10 days
16 days \/ 59\u00b0F
6 days \/ 68\u00b0F
4 days \/ 77\u00b0F
3 days \/ 86\u00b0F * Optimum
Germination percentage: 75+
Seed viability: 3 – 6 years
Weeks to grow transplant: 3 – 4
Planning facts<\/strong>
Hardiness: Tender
Growing temp: 50 (65 – 75) 90\u00b0F
Plants per person: 3
Plants per sq ft: \u2153
Planting<\/strong>
Start: 2 wks before last frost date
Plant out: 3 wks after last frost
Direct sow: 2 – 4 wks after last frost
Harvest facts<\/strong>
Days to harvest: 90 – 120
Yield per plant: 3 lb (5 fruits)
Yield per sq ft: 1 lb sq ft
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