{"id":2120,"date":"2019-10-07T06:06:19","date_gmt":"2019-10-07T06:06:19","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/greenmanpublishing.com\/?p=2120"},"modified":"2019-10-07T06:06:26","modified_gmt":"2019-10-07T06:06:26","slug":"parsnip","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/greenmanpublishing.com\/index.php\/2019\/10\/07\/parsnip\/","title":{"rendered":"Parsnip"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Pastinaca sativa <\/em>ssp sativa<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Introduction<\/strong>: The parsnip has been an important crop since the time of the\nRomans. It was actually a staple root vegetable in Europe for centuries, until\nit was eventually displaced by the potato. It is still much more popular there\nthan it is in North America and is a common sight in their vegetable gardens. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Crop value<\/strong>: The parsnip is a valuable crop for several reasons. It tastes\ngood, is nutritious, is easy to store (simply leave it in the ground) and easy\nto grow. The main drawback is that it is slow growing and in the ground for\nquite a long time.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ease of growing<\/strong>: Parsnip is an easy plant to grow, as once established it is\ncapable of looking after itself. When I first started gardening and carrot used\nto give me problems, I never had any difficulty with parsnip.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Climate<\/strong>: The parsnip is a cool season crop, growing best at 60 – 65\u02daF. It\ngrows well enough in warmer weather, but warm nights (above 65\u02daF) cause the\nplant to use the sugar it produces for further growth, rather than storing it\nin the root. Such roots won\u2019t be very sweet.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Parsnips are very hardy and can tolerate a considerable amount of\nfrost, which actually improves their flavor by making them sweeter.   <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nutritional content<\/strong>: The root contains carbohydrates, vitamin C, folate, calcium,\nmanganese, potassium and lots of fiber. It is quite a good source of energy\nwith 340 calories per pound.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
About Parsnip<\/strong> \u00a0
Seed facts<\/strong>
Germ temp: 35 (50 – 70) 85\u00b0F
Germination time: 10 – 21 days
172 days \/ 32\u00b0F
57 days \/ 41\u00b0F
27 days \/ 50\u00b0F
19 days \/ 59\u00b0F
14 days \/ 68\u00b0F * Optimum
15 days \/ 77\u00b0F
32 days \/ 86\u00b0F
Viability: 1 year
Germination percentage: 60%+ \u00a0

Planning facts<\/strong>
Hardiness: Hardy
Growing temp: 40 (60 – 65) 75\u00b0F
Plants per person: 25
Plants per sq ft: 9
Direct sow
Spring: 2 wks before last frost
Fall: Sow mid summer
Days to harvest: 120 – 200 days \u00a0

Harvest facts<\/strong>
Yield per plant: 2 – 16 oz
Yield per sq ft: 1 – 4 lb sq ft
\u00a0 <\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table>\n\n\n\n

Soil<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

pH 6.0 – 7.0<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The ideal soil for parsnips is a fairly neutral, loose,\nwell-drained, moderately rich loam. It should be deep because the roots may go\ndown 2 feet and also fairly free of stones. They won\u2019t be very productive in\npoor soil.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

 Soil preparation<\/strong>: Incorporate 2 – 4\u02dd of compost or aged manure into the top 12\u02dd of\nsoil. Don\u2019t use fresh manure, as too much nitrogen encourages foliage growth at\nthe expense of the roots (it may also make the roots fork). Like most root\ncrops they need lots of potassium (add greensand) and phosphorus (add colloidal\nphosphate or wood ashes), but relatively little nitrogen. Add lime if the soil is acidic.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

If the soil is compacted, double digging is recommended, as it\nensures the soil is loose and free of large stones. If it is really bad, you\nmight consider growing the shorter varieties and planting in trenches filled\nwith a special sifted topsoil\n\/ compost mix.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Parsnips are a good crop to plant after potatoes. They like the\ndeeply dug soil and the previous heavy fertilization.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Planning<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Where<\/strong>: Parsnips do better than most common crops in light shade, though\nthey are more productive in full sun. They are in the ground for a long time,\nso should be located where they won\u2019t interfere with late garden operations,\nsuch as fall bed preparation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When<\/strong>: Parsnip planting should be timed so the plants mature in the\ncool weather of autumn. It is quite a long season crop (it can easily take four\nmonths to reach maturity) and when you plant it is largely determined by the length of your growing season. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Spring<\/strong>: In areas with a short growing season you\nplant it in spring for a fall harvest. You can sow the seed as early as 2 weeks\nbefore the last spring frost date, but unless there is a rush to get them in\nthe ground, you may as well wait a few weeks until the soil has warmed up. If\nyou look at the germination times you will see that it takes the seed almost 2\nmonths to germinate at 40\u00b0F, but only a month at 50\u00b0F.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Fall<\/strong>: In areas with a longer growing season they are usually planted\nin midsummer, so as to mature around the time of the first fall frost. They can\nthen sit in the ground until needed. Start thinking about planting them 4\nmonths before the first fall frost. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Planting<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Direct sowing<\/strong>: Parsnip seed is considered to be temperamental and you often\nread warnings against using seed that is more than one year old. I haven\u2019t had\nmuch difficulty in getting 2 year old seed to germinate, but for best results\nit is best to use fresh seed where possible. You should also plant lots of it\n(you may as well use the whole packet as it doesn\u2019t keep well anyway). It is\nbetter to sow slightly too thickly (and have to thin) than it is to risk not\nhaving enough plants.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The seed is quite slow to germinate, taking 2\nweeks even at the optimal 68\u00b0F. It may not germinate very well if the soil is\nwarm, which could be a problem if you are planting in midsummer. See Lettuce<\/strong> for more on persuading seed to germinate in cool weather.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The most critical aspect of sowing is depth, as the seedlings\naren\u2019t very vigorous and must not be sown too deeply (\u00bc\u02dd is enough). Some\npeople plant a few radishes along with the parsnips under the theory that the\nfast germinating radishes break up the soil surface, making it easier for the\nparsnips to emerge (they also mark the rows). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Broadcast sowing<\/strong>: Scatter the seed so there is an inch separating each one. Be\ncareful of high winds blowing the light seeds as they are designed to be\nscattered by the wind. Also make sure you sow enough seed, because after you\nplant it might take a whole month before you realize your stand is too sparse.\nCover the seed with a thin \u00bc – \u00bd\u02dd layer of soil (or a mix of sifted topsoil and\ncompost).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Row sowing<\/strong>: Sow the seed \u00bd – 1\u02dd apart in shallow furrows Then re-fill the\nfurrows with a thin layer of sand, or a mix of sifted topsoil and compost\n(ideally you want to plant them \u00bc\u02dd deep.) You can also sow it in wide rows. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Water gently after\nsowing. Too much water, applied too quickly, may wash these light seeds around.\nThis results in bare patches and very dense patches, which isn\u2019t good.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Spacing<\/strong>: The distance between plants largely determines how big they can\nget. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Beds<\/strong>: If you want very large roots space them 4 – 5\u02dd apart in the\nbeds. For average sized roots space them 3\u02dd apart. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Rows<\/strong>: Space the plants 2 – 4\u02dd apart in the row, with 18 – 24\u02dd between\nthe rows.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Thinning<\/strong>: If the plants are to grow quickly, without\ncompetition from neighboring plants, they must be properly thinned. As with\ncarrots, this is one of the most crucial aspects of raising good parsnips. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

When all of the seedlings are up and about 3\u02dd\ntall, thin them to the desired spacing, taking out the weakest plants where\npossible. Don\u2019t wait too long to do this, as their roots and tops will soon get\ntangled.\n <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Care<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

 Weeds<\/strong>: The young plants don\u2019t compete with weeds\nvery well, so must be weeded carefully. This should be done by hand, as hoes\ncan easily damage the shoulders of the root. Older plants are able to compete\nagainst weeds pretty well, as they produce a dense canopy of foliage.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Watering<\/strong>: Parsnips need constant moisture (especially when the roots are\nsizing up), so don\u2019t let the soil get too dry. Give them at least 1\u02dd of water\nper week.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Fertilization<\/strong>: If the soil isn\u2019t very fertile, give your plants a regular feed\nof compost tea or liquid seaweed\nevery month. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mulch<\/strong>: If growing in rows it is helpful to lay down mulch between the\nrows. It keeps the soil moist, suppresses weeds and covers the shoulders of the\nroots.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Problems<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pests<\/strong>: Parsnip can be affected by most of the\npests that attack the related carrot, but it tends to be a pretty problem free\ncrop and isn\u2019t usually badly affected.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Leaf Miners<\/strong>: The only pest I have encountered has been leafminers, but as we\ndon\u2019t eat the leaves their damage is usually fairly inconsequential. If they\nget bad, you might want to use row covers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Canker<\/strong>: This disease is commonest in poorly drained, acid soils and\ncauses the root to rot. Most modern varieties have some resistance to it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

 Harvesting<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

When<\/strong>: Parsnips generally take around 120 – 150 days to reach maturity.\nThey can be dug any time they are large enough, but they are at their best from\nlate autumn onwards, after the tops have died down and they have been exposed\nto several weeks of frost and cold weather. Low temperatures cause the starch\nin the root to be converted into sugar, which makes them sweeter. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Generally the roots are gathered after the foliage has died down\nand it\u2019s getting cold. As with carrots the young roots are the most tender, but\nthey are not as sweet or tasty as older ones. You can continue to eat parsnips\nall winter until you run out, or until they start to grow again the following spring (which they do\nquite early).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

How<\/strong>: If the soil is very loose, you can simply pull the roots up by\nthe tops. If the soil is heavy they will just break off if you try this. You\nthen have to loosen them with a fork before pulling. After harvesting you\nshould remove the tops, to stop them draining moisture from the root.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Don\u2019t harvest any more roots than you can use in the next meal, as\nthey store better in the ground. If you still have roots in the ground in late\nwinter, you should dig them all, as they will turn woody and unpalatable once\nthey start growing\nagain.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Storage<\/strong>: Parsnips\nare one of the best crops for winter use. They are so hardy they can be stored\nin the ground all winter and dug as required. A thick mulch of straw can be\nused to prevent the ground from freezing so they are easier to dig (it may also\nprotect the roots). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

In extremely cold areas they may be covered with 4 – 6\u02dd inches of\nsoil and then a layer of mulch put on top of this. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

If mice are a problem you may have to lay down wire mesh before you apply the mulch. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The roots can be stored for several weeks in a plastic bag in the\nfridge. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

For long term storage, treat them like carrots and store them in a\nroot cellar, in damp sand or peat moss. Large quantities can also be stored in\na clamp (see Potato<\/strong>). Smaller\nquantities may be sliced\nand frozen. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Seed saving<\/strong>: It\u2019s easier to save parsnip seed than most other biennials,\nbecause they are so hardy there is no problem getting them through the winter.\nYou don\u2019t have to store the roots inside, or even protect them outside (though\nyou might want to move them to a more convenient place). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Parsnips flower in the spring of their second year. They are\ncross-pollinated by insects, so you should grow only one variety at a time (or\nyou could isolate them). They will also cross with wild parsnip, which is the\nnaturalized wild form of this plant (it is common in some areas). Save seed\nfrom at least a half dozen plants to maintain some genetic diversity.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Gather the ripe seeds from the umbels in summer (don\u2019t wait too\nlong or they may start to disperse) and dry thoroughly. They will need at least\na month of after-ripening before they will germinate.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Unusual growing ideas<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Intercrop<\/strong>: Parsnip is so slow to get started that it is common practice to\nplant a fast growing intercrop, such as lettuce or spinach, in between the\nnewly sown rows. These will be harvested before the roots need the room.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Greens<\/strong>: The tender new leafy growth of second year plants is sometimes\neaten in salads. Surplus roots are sometimes forced indoors to supply early\nspring greens.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Varieties<\/strong><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Some parsnip varieties can produce large, spindle shaped roots up\nto 18\u02dd in length, with a diameter of 3\u02dd at the top. These larger roots need a\nvery deep and loose soil to perform well. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Most modern varieties are resistant to parsnip canker. The\ncommonest varieties include:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

All\nAmerican<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cobham\nImproved<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Improved\nHollow Crown<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Harris\nmodel<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kitchen use<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Parsnips are best known for their use in winter stews and soups,\nbut can be used in lots of other ways too. Try roasted parsnips, French-fried\nparsnips, stir-fried parsnips, steamed parsnips or baked parsnips. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Baking is particularly good as some of their starch will be\nconverted into sugar and they become very sweet. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

When sugar was expensive parsnips were sometimes used to sweeten\ncakes and to make desserts (and they still can). In Britain they have been used\nto make a surprisingly good wine.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Pastinaca sativa ssp sativa Introduction: The parsnip has been an important crop since the time of the Romans. It was actually a staple root vegetable in Europe for centuries, until … Read More<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[243],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2120","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-root-veg","entry"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/greenmanpublishing.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2120","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/greenmanpublishing.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/greenmanpublishing.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/greenmanpublishing.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/greenmanpublishing.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2120"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/greenmanpublishing.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2120\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2121,"href":"https:\/\/greenmanpublishing.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2120\/revisions\/2121"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/greenmanpublishing.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2120"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/greenmanpublishing.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2120"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/greenmanpublishing.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2120"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}