{"id":1994,"date":"2019-10-05T22:45:15","date_gmt":"2019-10-05T22:45:15","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/greenmanpublishing.com\/?p=1994"},"modified":"2019-10-07T02:16:16","modified_gmt":"2019-10-07T02:16:16","slug":"cabbage","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/greenmanpublishing.com\/index.php\/2019\/10\/05\/cabbage\/","title":{"rendered":"Cabbage"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Brassica<\/em> <\/em>oleracea<\/em> <\/em>var <\/em>capitata<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Wild Cabbage (Brassica oleracea ssp oleracea)<\/em> is\nnative to the coastal areas of Western Europe and is still found growing wild\nthere. An impressive variety of cool weather garden crops have been bred from\nthis unimpressive looking plant, including kale, collards, cabbage, broccoli,\ncauliflower, Brussels sprout and kohlrabi. Cabbage was probably refined into\nthe familiar crop in Germany and is still very popular there. The word cole is\nan old name for cabbage (hence coleslaw).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Crop value<\/strong>: Cabbage was a staple food of Northern European peasants for centuries.\nIt is an ideal crop for self-sufficiency for many reasons. It is easy to grow\nand store, nutritious, high yielding, hardy and can be harvested fresh during\ncold weather after most other crops are finished. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cabbage was the crop to depend upon when all else failed and there\nare varieties for harvesting for most of the year. Perhaps because of this\nassociation with poor peasants, cabbage has never been held in very high esteem\nby gourmets, but it can be very good.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ease of growing<\/strong>:\nCabbage is pretty easy to  grow if you\npay attention to the minor details. Give it a good soil, water and weed\nregularly and plant the right variety at the right time.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nutritional content<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cabbage is\nrich in vitamin C, calcium and several cancer preventing phytochemicals (anthocyanins,\nsulforaphane, isothiocyanates, dithiolethiones). It has been found that people\nwho eat lots of Brassicas, have lower cancer rates than those who don\u2019t.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As a source\nof energy cabbage contains about 110 calories per pound, so those peasants who\nrelied upon it as a winter food would have had to eat a lot!<\/p>\n\n\n\n
About Cabbage<\/strong> \u00a0<\/strong>

Seed facts<\/strong>
Germ temp: 45 – 85\u02daF
Germ time: 4 – 20 days
15 days \/ 50\u02daF
9 days \/ 59\u02daF
6 days \/ 68\u02daF
5 days \/ 77\u02daF * Optimum
4 days \/ 86\u02daF
Seed viability: 3 – 10 years
Germination percentage: 75+
Weeks to grow transplant: 4 – 5 \u00a0<\/strong>

Planning facts<\/strong>
Hardiness: Hardy
Growing temp: 40 (60 – 65) 75\u02daF
Plants per person: 5
Plants per sq ft: 1
Days to harvest:
70 – 200 days from seed
50 – 150 days from transplants. \u00a0

Planting<\/strong>
Transplants:
Start: 6 wks before last frost
Plant out: 2 wks before last frost
Direct sow: 2 wks before last frost
Fall crop: Sow in late summer \u00a0<\/strong>

Harvest facts<\/strong>
Yield per plant: 1 – 2 lb
Yield per sq ft: 1 – 3 lb sq ft \u00a0 <\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table>\n\n\n\n

Climate<\/strong>: Cabbage is an adaptable plant and can tolerate a variety of\nsituations. It prefers fairly cool growing conditions (ideally 60 – 65\u02daF) and in warm weather areas it only grows well in\nspring and fall (and maybe winter). It is quite hardy (some varieties much more\nthan others) and tolerates hard frost down to 20\u02daF. It doesn\u2019t taste very good\nwhen grown in hot\nweather.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Soil<\/strong><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

pH: (6.0 to\n6.5) to 7.5<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cabbages are hungry plants and must have rich\nsoil if they are to produce well. They prefer heavy soil with lots of organic\nmatter to retain moisture and lots of available nutrients (especially potassium\nand phosphorus). They don\u2019t need a lot of nitrogen however, as this can\nlead to sappy growth that isn\u2019t very hardy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cabbage doesn\u2019t like poorly drained soil. Early crops may do\nbetter in lighter soils that warm up more rapidly, or in raised beds.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Potential micronutrient deficiencies include boron and manganese.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Soil preparation<\/strong>: Cabbages love organic matter, so incorporate 2\u02dd of compost or\naged manure into the top 8\u02dd of soil. This is often applied the previous fall,\nin which case fresh manure can also be used. They also like phosphorus.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Clubroot can be a problem in acid soil, so try to keep the pH\nabove 7.0. Low pH may also lock up molybdenum, potentially causing a\ndeficiency. Raising the pH with a liming agent will also add calcium which is\ngood for cabbage. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Planning<\/strong><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Where<\/strong>: If you are growing cabbages in cold weather, they should be\nplanted in a warm sheltered place with full sun. In warmer climates they may do\nbetter in light shade. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Crop<\/strong> rotation<\/strong>: Cabbage is\nprone to a host of pests and diseases, so it is important to rotate it. Don\u2019t\nplant it where any Brassica has been grown in the past 3 years. They often\nfollow nitrogen fixing legumes in a rotation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When<\/strong>: Cabbage doesn\u2019t do well in hot weather, as it causes excessive\ntranspiration from the large leaves. It really needs cool weather and short\ndays to head up satisfactorily. This means that it does best when planted early\n(to mature before midsummer), or late (to mature in fall). If you live in a\nclimate with cool summers you can harvest right through the summer. If you live\nin an area with mild winters, you can harvest right through the winter too. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

With all the options of when to plant, it is important to choose a\nvariety that is appropriate for the season in which it will be grown. Cabbages\nare bred for growing at specific times and generally won\u2019t perform well if\ngrown at the wrong time of year. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Spring<\/strong>: The first cabbage plants can be started 6 – 8 weeks before the\nlast spring frost and planted out 4 – 6 weeks later. They should still be small\nenough that they won\u2019t be vernalized by a late cold snap, which would cause\nthem to bolt (see Broccoli for more on vernalization). If you plant early and feed them\nwell, the first plants should be mature by early summer. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Summer<\/strong>: In places with cool summers it can be grown almost year round,\nby succession sowing and using different varieties. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Fall<\/strong>: Start a fall crop 12 – 16 weeks before the first fall frost.\nThis can be planted in a nursery bed, or in any vacant spot. Just be sure to\ngive them protection from slugs and other predators. Plants grown at this time\nof year tend to be much better flavored than those grown in warmer weather.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Winter<\/strong>: In areas with mild winters cabbage can be planted in late summer\nas a winter crop. This will mature in late autumn and then stand right through\nthe winter in good condition. These plants can get very big.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cabbage can also be planted in autumn, to over-winter and mature\nthe following spring. In milder areas it might also be planted in January for a\nspring crop.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Succession<\/strong>: Plant cabbage in succession every 3 – 4 weeks. Generally you\nonly need a few plants to mature at any one time, so you should only plant a\nfew seeds (a dozen or so) at each sowing. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Planting<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Transplants<\/strong>: Cabbage is hardy enough to be direct sown, but is more often grown\nfrom transplants. It actually seems to like being transplanted and is said to\ngrow a stronger root network as a result. These can also give you an earlier\nstart in spring. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Starting inside<\/strong>: The first spring cabbages are usually started indoors 6 weeks\nbefore the last frost date. Plant the seeds 1\u02dd apart and \u00bd\u02dd deep and keep them\nwarm (60 – 80\u02daF) for fastest germination. Once they are growing, reduce the\ntemperature to between 50 and 70\u02daF, as they grow better in cooler conditions.\nWhen they have 2 sets of leaves they should be pricked out into a larger\ncontainer, leaving 2\u02dd between plants. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The seedlings will be ready to go in the ground 4 weeks later,\nwhen they have 4 or 5 true leaves and are about 4\u02dd high. Be sure to plant them\noutside as soon as they are of sufficient size. If they sit around in\ncontainers for too long, they will get stressed and deficient and won\u2019t perform\nwell.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

You can also buy cabbage transplants of course, but they are so\neasy to raise yourself there is usually no reason to.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Hardening off<\/strong>: If transplants are to go outside while\nit is still cold, they must be hardened off (failure to do so can result in\nbadly shocked plants that just don\u2019t grow well). They will then tolerate\ntemperatures as low as 25\u02daF. Start by putting the plants outside for 2 hours on\nthe first day, then 4 hours on the second day. Add 2 hours every day for a week\nand then plant out.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Planting out<\/strong>: Planting the seedlings is\npretty straightforward; just bury the stems up to their first true leaves.\nPress down gently around the plant to firm the soil and leave a slight\ndepression. Water the plants the day before you transplant them, and\nimmediately afterward to help them recover. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

If cutworms, root maggots or birds are a problem in your area, you\nwill have to take suitable preventive measures.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cutworms<\/strong>: If you find whole plants laying on the ground, severed at the\nbase, cutworms are usually responsible. Dig in the soil around the fallen plant\nand you will usually find a small, dark, curled up caterpillar). If you find it\nyou can prevent it killing other plants. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cutworms can be a real problem for young seedlings in spring. A\ngood solution is to wrap the stems in individual cutworm collars, made of\ncardboard, newspaper (2 layers) or aluminum foil. These should go 2\u02dd into the\nsoil. You can also use a bottomless paper cup to surround the whole plant.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Starting\ntransplants outside<\/strong>: In\nmild weather the transplants can be started in an outdoor nursery bed. Sow the\nseed about 1\u02dd apart and when they have all emerged and are growing vigorously,\ntransplant them to stand 3\u02dd apart. This is a much more efficient use of space\nthan direct sowing, as the plants don\u2019t take up much bed space for the first 4\n– 6 weeks of their lives. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Direct\nsowing<\/strong>: As the weather warms\nup, cabbage is often sown directly outdoors. The plants grow well when direct\nsown, though there is a danger that they may end up as dinner for some of the\nmany hungry pests that love Brassicas. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Some people sow turnip\nseed along with the cabbage, as many pests seem to prefer it and will then\nleave the cabbage alone. You can also plant a lot more seed than you need, to\ncompensate for some losses. The problem of predation is one reason Brassicas\nare often started indoors, where they are more easily protected. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

If you want to direct sow plant the seeds \u00bc \u02dd\ndeep in cool soil, up to 1\u02dd deep in warm soil. Space them 2\u02dd apart, to be\nthinned to the desired spacing when they get big enough (you can eat the\nthinnings).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Spacing<\/strong>: This varies according to variety, soil\nfertility, the time of year and how large you want the plants to get. You can\ncontrol the final size of the plants by the spacing – a wider spacing means\nlarger, but fewer, plants. You can also plant\ncloser together initially and harvest every alternate plant for use as immature\ngreens (this goes along with planting extra to minimize the effect of pests).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Beds<\/strong>: <\/p>\n\n\n\n

12\u02dd spacing is for very fertile soil, summer and smaller heads.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

15\u02dd spacing is for average soil, summer and average heads.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

18\u02dd spacing is for poor soil, winter and large heads.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Rows: If you want to plant in\nrows, the traditional spacing is 12 – 18\u02dd apart in the row, with 18 – 24\u02dd\nbetween the rows (exact spacing depends upon the size of the variety).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Care<\/strong><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

For best quality the plants must experience\nno check from lack of water or nutrients, or competition from weeds.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Weed<\/strong>: Keep down weeds around the plants. This is\nparticularly important when the plants are young, as they can\u2019t compete very\nwell.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Water<\/strong>: Cabbage needs a regular water supply to grow well, at least an\ninch of water per week. They are quite shallow rooted, so make sure there is\nplenty of moisture in the soil at all times. This is particularly important in\nhot weather, as dry soil can severely impact the harvest.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Consistent watering is also important. Lack\nof water can result in strongly flavored plants and thicker, tougher leaves. If\nplants are suddenly soaked after being very dry, the resulting burst in growth\ncan cause the head to split. An extreme measure to prevent this happening\n(perhaps after heavy rain) is to cut some of the roots with a knife or spade.\nThis reduces the amount of water the plant can take in. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

It is best if the leaves don\u2019t get wet when watering, as several\ndiseases can be spread in this way.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Fertilization<\/strong>: A liquid feed of compost tea is helpful in\nearly spring, while the soil is cool and nitrogen is not readily available. A\nsecond feed may be given as they are heading up, to help them grow bigger.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mulch<\/strong>: These widely spaced plants benefit from a mulch to keep down\nweeds, keep the soil cool and to conserve moisture.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Problems<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Heading up<\/strong>: Before a cabbage begins to head up it stores nutrients in its\nouter leaves. These are then used during the heading up phase, when more\nnutrients are needed in a shorter time than the roots can easily supply.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pests<\/strong>: Plants of the Brassicaceae<\/em> family have developed a pungent and toxic\noil to protect themselves from insect predators. This is very effective in most\ncases, however a number of insects have not only evolved some resistance to it,\nbut are now actually attracted by it. These are serious pests of Brassicas and\ncan make growing them much more difficult than it should be. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aphids<\/strong>: These are the ever-present pests of Brassicas. Blasting them off\nwith a strong jet (I mean strong) of water makes a big difference. It also pays\nto have lots of insectory plants (Phacelia, Asteraceae. Apiaceae<\/em>)\naround to feed the predators that prey on aphids.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Caterpillars<\/strong>: Several types of caterpillar live only on\nthe various Brassicas and can strip a young plant to the midribs in a short\ntime. It is important to keep an eye out for these, so you can deal with them\nbefore they devastate your crop. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

If you have only a few plants, hand picking\nis the best way to go. If you have a whole field then a spray of BT (Bacillus thuringensis<\/em>) is usually recommended. Parasitic wasps can\nkill a lot of caterpillars if given the chance, but not if you start spraying poisons. Red cabbage is not as attractive to caterpillars\nas the green, though it is more attractive to aphids. If they are really bad\nyou might also go after the conspicuous white butterflies with a butterfly net.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Flea\nBeetles<\/strong>: These tiny\ninsects are common in spring and eat small holes in the leaves of the young\nplants. Transplants can usually take this damage without too much problem, they\nwill just put out new leaves, but newly germinated seedlings may be killed. If\nthey are a big problem you could use row covers, or plant some turnip seed as a\ntrap crop. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cabbage Root Fly<\/strong>: This is probably the worst Brassica pest. It lays its eggs at\nthe base of the plant and the newly hatched larvae work their way down to the\nroots and eat them. If they are numerous enough they pretty much destroy the\nroots and kill the plant. The first warning sign is when a plant wilts in sunny\nweather. If this occurs, examine the root for the small white maggots, which\nlook like small grains of rice. If you find affected plants, remove and kill\nthe maggots to stop them maturing and reproducing (or just to make you feel\nbetter). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The easiest way to deal with these pests is to use row covers,\nwhich prevents the fly getting near enough to the plant to lay eggs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Another effective control is to use 6\u02dd\nsquares (or disks) of foam carpet backing. You cut a slit to the center of the\nsquare and put them around the stem. These work very well, because the foam can\nexpand as the stem enlarges. These disks not only make it harder for the fly\nlarvae to get into the root, but also provide refuges for the predatory beetles\nthat eat the eggs and larvae. These disks have achieved 70% control, which is\nas good as most pesticides. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The flies prefer Chinese cabbage and will lay their eggs near it,\nin preference to cabbage. You could plant these near your cabbages as a trap\ncrop.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

You don\u2019t have to eliminate all of these maggots. Some damage is\ntolerable, so long as it doesn\u2019t seriously affect the crop.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Other pests<\/strong>: Cutworms, harlequin bugs, thrips, root knot nematodes, slugs and\nsnails.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Birds<\/strong>: These will sometimes eat seedlings,\nespecially in spring. If this is a problem you may have to net the plants (row\ncovers used to prevent other pests will also work). In my garden quail are a\nproblem for Brassicas year round, but particularly in winter. They love to eat\nthe <\/p>\n\n\n\n

leaves and will tear them to shreds\n(sometimes they strip whole plants).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Diseases<\/strong>: Alternaria blight, black leg, black rot, downy mildew, fusarium\nwilt and wirestem.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Clubroot<\/strong>: (Plasmodiophora brassicae<\/em>): This\nserious root disease is a big problem in some areas. It causes the roots to\nswell up like clubs and can kill the plant. Clubroot likes acid soil, so the\ncloser your soil is to neutral the better. If this disease gets into your soil\nit can stay there for years, even without any Brassicas to infect.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nutrient\ndeficiency<\/strong>:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Boron deficiency<\/strong>: Brassicas generally are quite susceptible to boron deficiency,\nwhich manifests itself as hollow stems.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Harvest<\/strong><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

When<\/strong>: Harvest the first cabbage heads as soon as they are big and\nsolid enough to be worthwhile, though you will get the biggest harvest by\nwaiting until they are fully mature.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

You can harvest the un-hearted (heartless) plants, any time they\nare big enough to bother with, but they will be much less productive. You could\nplant close together and harvest every alternate plant in this way. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

If a mature head begins to crack (this may be caused by excess\nnitrogen, aging or irregular water supply) harvest it and use promptly. This\ndoesn\u2019t affect edibility, but it does affect storage life.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Delaying maturation<\/strong>: If too many cabbages are maturing at once, you can slow their\ngrowth by cutting through some of their roots with a spade. You can also twist\nthe head a quarter turn, to break some of the roots.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

How<\/strong>: Harvest by cutting through the base of the stem with a knife.\nWhen you harvest early cabbage, you might want to leave a few leaves on the\nroot (this is the fastest way to get a clean cabbage anyway). These will keep\nthe root alive and may enable it to produce a new crop of mini cabbages (these are\nknown as cabbage sprouts in England). If you harvest all but one of these, the\nremaining one might even grow into another small head <\/p>\n\n\n\n

If cabbage root fly or clubroot are a big problem you might want\nto remove the roots after harvest and compost or burn them. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Storage<\/strong>: Cabbages are usually left in the garden and harvested as needed.\nIn milder areas they will even continue to grow. In colder areas you may have\nto protect them with mulch.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The fleshy leaves of cabbage are intended as\nfood storage organs, so they are one of the easiest crops to store. They can be\nstored in plastic bags in a refrigerator (for weeks), or in a root cellar at 32\nto 40\u02daF and 90 to 95% humidity (for months). Don\u2019t wash them until you use\nthem.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Seed saving<\/strong>: Cabbage is a biennial and takes two years to produce seed. Don\u2019t\nsave seed from plants that flower in their first year, as you don\u2019t want to\nraise an annual strain that bolts quickly. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

In harsh climates you may have to protect the plants over the\nwinter. You can do this with a thick mulch of straw, cold frames, cloches or\nhay bales (half grown plants sometimes survive better <\/p>\n\n\n\n

than larger ones). You may also dig them up (leave 12\u02dd of root\nattached) and store in a root cellar in damp sand.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cabbage is usually self-incompatible and must be cross-pollinated\nby insects. This means there must be a number of plants flowering at the same\ntime. Normally you should save the seed from at least 5 plants to maintain some\ngenetic diversity.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

All of the cole crops are the same species and will cross with\neach other. To maintain racial purity you have to ensure that only one type\n(and variety) flowers at once. The alternative is to isolate them, either by\ndistance (1000 yards for different varieties, 1500 yards for different crops),\nor by caging them (don\u2019t forget they need insects for pollination). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The plants flower in the spring of their second year. If the head\nis very dense the flower stalk may have a hard time emerging. If this is the\ncase you can cut a 2\u02dd deep cross in the top of the head to help it get out. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

A large healthy cabbage plant may produce as much as a half-pound\nof seed. This can get quite heavy and the stem may need support if it is not to\nbreak under its own weight. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The seed pods should be gathered when the older bottom pods first\nstart to split open. Watch them carefully as they shatter easily when they are\nfully ripe. Cut the seedpod bearing stems and dry them in a warm place (I put\nsmall quantities in a paper grocery bag, so I don\u2019t lose any seeds). The seeds\nare fairly big and are easily handled and cleaned. Of course it is essential\nthat they are thoroughly dry before storage. \n<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Unusual growing ideas<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Intercrop<\/strong>: The plants need a lot of space when mature, but not when young.\nUse this temporarily vacant space by interplanting a fast maturing crop such as\nlettuce.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Spring greens<\/strong>: This is over-wintered cabbage planted very close together (only\n6\u02dd apart). When the plants begin to touch, every other plant is harvested and\neaten. The remaining plants can then either be eaten or left to head up to full\nsize<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sprouting<\/strong>: If you save all of the seed from 5 plants,\nyou will have far more seed than you actually need for planting. A good way to\nuse the surplus is to sprout it like alfalfa. Cabbage sprouts have a nice spicy\nflavor and are highly nutritious.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Micro-greens<\/strong>: Any surplus seed can also be used to grow tasty micro-green\nsalads materials (see Micro-greens).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Varieties<\/strong><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

There are a number of different kinds of cabbage, grown for\ndifferent purposes and at different times. Red, green, almost white, curly,\ncrinkled, conical, spherical, lettuce-like, summer, autumn, winter, mammoth and\ntiny. The most important differences are; the time of harvest, time needed to\nmaturity (this varies enormously), length of time they can be stored, disease\nresistance and their tolerance of frost. If you choose the wrong variety for\nyour needs, it may not respond as you would like.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Early<\/strong>: 60 to 80 days <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Copenhagen Market <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Early Jersey Wakefield<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Primo<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mid-season<\/strong>: 80 to 90\ndays Brunswick<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Early Flat Dutch<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Late<\/strong>: 90 to 110 days (these are bigger, have thicker leaves and store\nbetter) <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Danish Ballhead<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Late Flat Dutch <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Savoy<\/strong>: Very\nhardy and attractive, it is usually grown over the winter. Melissa<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Best-of-All<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Red<\/strong>: These are the least hardy cabbages , but the most appealing\nvisually. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Red Danish<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Red Acre<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Red Express<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kitchen use<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

A home grown cabbage, grown in cold weather and cooked really\nwell, can be very good. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cabbage is also great raw, in fact I actually prefer it that way.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Cole slaw<\/strong> \u00a0
\u00bd head cabbage (chopped)
1 green onion (chopped)
2 carrots (grated)
2 tbsp parsley leaves (chopped)
1\/2 cup mayonnaise (or vegan alternative)
1\/2 tsp salt
2 tsp celery seeds
1\/2\u00a0 tbsp sugar
1\/4 tsp\u00a0 black pepper
1 tbsp white vinegar \u00a0

Prepare the vegetables and mix them in a bowl. In a separate bowl mix
the rest of the ingredients, then pour over the vegetables to cover them
evenly. Chill in the fridge for one hour (this is so simple it is hardly a
recipe at all). \u00a0 <\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Brassica oleracea var capitata Wild Cabbage (Brassica oleracea ssp oleracea) is native to the coastal areas of Western Europe and is still found growing wild there. An impressive variety of … Read More<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1995,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[241],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1994","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-leaf-veg","entry"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/greenmanpublishing.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/Cabbage.jpg","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/greenmanpublishing.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1994","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/greenmanpublishing.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/greenmanpublishing.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/greenmanpublishing.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/greenmanpublishing.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1994"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/greenmanpublishing.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1994\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1998,"href":"https:\/\/greenmanpublishing.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1994\/revisions\/1998"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/greenmanpublishing.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1995"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/greenmanpublishing.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1994"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/greenmanpublishing.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1994"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/greenmanpublishing.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1994"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}