{"id":1545,"date":"2019-09-08T05:05:57","date_gmt":"2019-09-08T05:05:57","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/greenmanpublishing.com\/?p=1545"},"modified":"2019-10-05T23:28:34","modified_gmt":"2019-10-05T23:28:34","slug":"artichoke-globe","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/greenmanpublishing.com\/index.php\/2019\/09\/08\/artichoke-globe\/","title":{"rendered":"Artichoke, Globe"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Cynara<\/em> <\/em>scolymus<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Introduction<\/strong>: Artichoke is native to the Mediterranean, where its flower buds\nhave been a favored food since the time of ancient Greece. They are quite a\nunique vegetable, in that the part eaten is actually a part of the flower (the\nscales and swollen base). They are also relatively unusual in being a\nperennial.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Artichoke is considered to be one of the finest of all vegetable\nfoods. I think it fully lives up to its reputation, no other vegetable is quite\nas decadently delicious when cooked fresh from the garden. This is somewhat\nironic, when you consider that it is a kind of thistle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Artichokes are quite nutritious, but you don\u2019t usually eat them in\nsufficient quantity for them to be an important food source. Also the sprawling\nplants need a lot of space, so the yield per square foot is low. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nutritional content<\/strong>: Artichokes are a fair source of vitamins A and C, as well as\nniacin and folate (the natural form of folic acid). They also contain a variety\nof valuable anti-cancer and immune-boosting phytonutrients,  including cynarin and luteolin. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cynarin is\nnot only a useful antioxidant with medicinal properties, it also stimulates\ntaste bud receptors and actually makes food taste better.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Crop value<\/strong>: You don\u2019t generally eat a lot of artichoke, so it tends to be more of a treat than a substantial food. It is actually a  highly nutritious food though and there is a lot of room for us to increase our consumption of these delicious and nutritious buds. Grow them yourself and you can live like a Roman emperor, stuffing yourself with artichokes every few days (well a little bit like one),<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ease of growing<\/strong>: In\nthe right climate artichokes are pretty low maintenance and need almost no\nattention. They are perennial and can yield for up to 7 years, though the best\nhearts are usually produced in their second and third years. This is why they\nare usually replaced with new offsets every 3 years. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

When growing as a perennial, artichoke needs a lengthy rest period\nof cool weather (anywhere from 10 – 50 days under 50\u02daF, depending upon the variety). It\ndoesn\u2019t do well if it is too mild, too cold, or too hot and dry in summer\n(though it may survive the latter by going dormant).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In very\nmild or very cold climates it can be quite difficult to grow as a perennial,\nbut don\u2019t despair, you can still grow it as an annual. This is more work and\nthe harvest won\u2019t be as big, but it can work out, <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Climate<\/strong>: Artichokes grow best in a mild, damp, maritime climate, such as is found in coastal\nCalifornia. The cool growing weather means slower growth and higher\nquality buds.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

If the climate isn\u2019t suitable they won\u2019t produce very large\n(or high quality) flower buds. The best approach to growing them is\ndetermined by your climate. In the ideal cool\nand mild climate they are planted in spring and harvested in fall and through\nthe winter. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Though artichokes prefer cool weather they are not very frost hardy and won\u2019t survive in areas with cold\nwinters. Even relatively mild temperatures (28\u02daF)\nwill kill the flower buds, while lower temperatures (especially when combined\nwith wet soil) will kill the whole plant. In colder areas artichokes must\neither be grown as annuals, or the roots must be protected over the winter in\nsome way. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Soil<\/strong><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

pH 6.0-7.0<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The best soil for growing artichokes is deep, rich, well-drained,\nsandy and slightly acidic. Drainage is particularly important in cold climates,\nbecause if the roots stay cold and wet for long <\/p>\n\n\n\n

periods they will often rot (this is the commonest reason plants\ndie over the winter).<\/p>\n\n\n\n
About Globe Artichoke<\/strong>  <\/strong>
Seed facts<\/strong>
Perennial
Germ temp: 50 (65 – 70) 75\u02daF
Germ time: 7 – 21 days
Viability: 6 – 10 years
Germination percentage: 60 %+
Weeks to grow transplants: 10 – 12  <\/strong>

Planning facts<\/strong>
Hardiness: Somewhat hardy
Growing temp: 50 (60 – 65) 75\u02daF
Plants per person: 3
Plants per sq ft: 1 plant needs 9 sq ft
Days to harvest: 6 – 12 months
Plant height: 3 – 5 ft
Plant diameter: 4 – 6 ft  

Planting<\/strong>
Start: 6 weeks before last frost
Plant out: 2 weeks after last frost  <\/strong>

Harvest facts<\/strong>
Harvest period: 8 – 12 weeks
Yield per sq ft: 1 head
Yield per plant: 24 – 48 heads
Plants per person: 1 – 2 <\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table>\n\n\n\n

Soil preparation<\/strong>: Artichokes are a short term perennial, so you won\u2019t be able to\ndig the soil again without disturbing them. Amend the soil generously before\nplanting and if you are feeling energetic you might even double dig. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Because the plants are so widely spaced, you\ncould amend the individual planting holes, rather than fertilizing the whole\nbed. Dig a large planting hole and replace half of the soil with compost or\naged manure. You should also give them some greensand (for potassium),\ncolloidal phosphate (for phosphorus) and kelp (for trace elements), or an\norganic fertilizer mix.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

If your soil isn\u2019t well-drained you should grow your artichokes on\nraised beds or mounds.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Planning<\/strong><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Where<\/strong>: These large\nplants need a lot of space for the amount of food they produce and this is\nprobably the main reason they aren\u2019t more popular. They are just too big for\nthe intensive vegetable garden beds and are best planted individually in any\nodd vacant corner. You want to put them somewhere they can get as big as they\nwant, without causing any problems. They work well as a border or low hedge for\nthe ornamental garden. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

In the ideal climate artichokes should be placed in full sun, but\nin hot dry ones they may do better with some light shade during the hottest\npart of the day. They should also be sheltered from strong winds, as they are\nalso somewhat vulnerable to being blown over.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Don\u2019t plant artichokes close to established trees or shrubs, as\nthey won\u2019t be able to compete. This is particularly important in dry climates.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When<\/strong>: In suitably mild climates the roots can be\nplanted while they are dormant in late winter or early spring. In colder\nclimates they should be planted 2 – 3 weeks before the last frost date (the\nsoil temperature should be at least 50\u02daF).\n<\/p>\n\n\n\n

To grow artichokes from seed you usually start them indoors in\nlate winter, six weeks before the last frost date, An early start is\nparticularly important if you are growing them as an annual, as this allows\nthem to grow for longer and get bigger. This is important if you want to\nharvest flower buds before the plant is killed by frost (which you do). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Planting<\/strong><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Artichokes are usually propagated vegetatively from offsets. They\ncan be started from seed quite easily, but this doesn\u2019t breed very true, which\nmeans there will be a lot of variation in the offspring. If you must use seed,\nchoose the best seedlings to grow on and discard the rest. In future years you\ncan propagate your chosen plants vegetatively.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Growing from seed<\/strong>: <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Indoors<\/strong>: Start the seed indoors in cell packs, soil blocks or individual\n3\u02dd pots. If you don\u2019t have many seeds, put one in each cell \/ pot,  if you have lots put 2 – 3 in each one and\nthin to the best plant when all have germinated. Artichoke seedlings grow\nquickly, so be prepared to transplant them into larger pots if necessary.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Plant the seedlings out in their permanent position after all\ndanger of frost is past and they have at least two sets of true leaves. The\nplants will grow rapidly once they get established in rich soil. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

If any buds appear during the first year, they should be nipped\noff to encourage strong root growth. Obviously if you are growing it as an\nannual, you don\u2019t do this.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Outdoors<\/strong>: If your climate is suitable you can sow the seed directly\noutdoors (\u00bd\u02dd deep). The best way to do this is to start them in a nursery bed\nand transplant them when they are big enough.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Vegetative propagation<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

What<\/strong>: Artichokes are normally grown from the suckers (offsets) that\nemerge from the old plant in spring. These work much better than growing from\nseed, as you can select suckers from the best plants. These are the plants that\ngrow vigorously, produce the best quality buds, yield earlier and are most\nproductive. All of the suckers  from the\nsame plant will be genetically identical of course. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

If you don\u2019t have any plants to propagate\nfrom, you can buy them, or look around for a friend or neighbor to beg, steal\nor borrow from. Alternatively you can start from seed and then use the best\nplants for propagation in future years.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

How<\/strong>: Suckers are removed from the\nparent plant as they emerge in spring. The normal practice is to dig down the\nside of the plant and cut off the emerging sucker (it may be up to 10\u02dd tall)\nwith a heel of old root attached. Trim off most of the leaves (the minimal\nroots can\u2019t support them) and plant it immediately in a well-prepared site,\nwith the growing point at surface level. Alternatively you could plant it in a\none gallon pot, or in nursery bed, until well rooted and then plant out.\n<\/p>\n\n\n\n

These suckers are pretty tough and even if they appear to die,\ndon\u2019t give up on them straight away. I had a batch of plants that appeared to\ndie, but they actually lay dormant all summer. When cool moist fall weather\narrived they burst into life.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Buying plants<\/strong>: Artichoke plants may be found for sale in garden centers as either\nseedlings or dormant roots. You need to plant these whenever they are available\n(which is early spring in colder areas and all winter in milder ones). They\nshould go in the ground at the same level they were in the nursery.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Spacing<\/strong>: A single artichoke plant will get bigger and bigger over the\nyears and can easily grow to be 4 ft tall and 4 ft (or even 6 ft) wide.\nObviously you need to give a plant this size plenty of room. The exact spacing\nmay vary quite a bit, but usually you will grow them in rows. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Space them 36 – 48\u02dd apart within the rows, with 48 – 72\u02dd between\nthe rows. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Growing as an annual<\/strong>: If your climate is too cold for artichokes to grow in the ground\nyear round, you may still be able to grow them as annuals. You just have to use\nthe right varieties and start them indoors early enough. You won\u2019t get the big\nbuds and big harvest of a mature perennial (and it will start later), but\nsomething is generally considered to be better than nothing. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Choose a variety that is adapted for annual growing and start the\nseed indoors 6 – 8 weeks before the last frost date, as described above. Plant\nout the seedlings 2 weeks after the last frost date. You want the plants to\ngrow rapidly so you should pamper them with a regular feed (every 2 – 3 weeks)\nof compost tea or liquid kelp. The first buds should start to appear towards\nthe end of the summer. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

You don\u2019t necessarily have to let the plants die over the winter,\nyou can try any of the several ways of overwintering them. See Frost<\/strong> below for ways to do this.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Care<\/strong><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

True to its thistly nature, the artichoke is a vigorous and robust\nplant that needs little attention once established. Its only real weakness is\nits minimal tolerance of cold. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Water<\/strong>: Though the artichoke is quite drought tolerant, it is important\nthat the plants have evenly moist soil (at least an inch of  water per week), particularly when the buds\nare developing. Water is essential to produce succulent buds and those produced\nby drought stressed plants  may be tough\nand poorly flavored. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Don\u2019t keep the soil wet all the time, as too much water can cause\ncrown rot. Allow the surface to dry out between watering. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Fertilization<\/strong>: Artichokes are hungry plants and yield best when grown without\nany check in their growth. To achieve this they must get all the nutrients they\nneed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The plants are usually fed annually with a\nmulch of compost or aged manure. If the soil isn\u2019t very fertile you can also\nside dress them with an organic fertilizer mix (in spring in colder areas, in\nfall in milder ones).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

You can also give them a liquid feed of compost tea occasionally\n(they particularly like nitrogen). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mulch<\/strong>: These widely spaced plants benefit from a\nlayer of mulch during the growing season, especially when newly planted and\nthere is a lot of bare soil between them. A mulch of compost is not only the\nmain source of nutrients for these perennial plants, but it also helps to\nretain moisture, keeps down weeds and keeps the soil cool in summer. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mulch is even more important in cold climates as it is used to\nprevent the ground from freezing in winter and so protects the tender crowns\n(see Frost protection<\/strong>\nbelow).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Support<\/strong>: Artichokes are fairly tall plants and can get quite top heavy,\nwhich makes them vulnerable to being blown over by strong wind. On a windy site\nyou may have to stake them firmly to prevent this.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Thinning plants:<\/strong> After a couple of years of growth a plant may end up producing a\ndense cluster of 10 or more shoots. If all of these were allowed to mature they\nwould get very crowded and would have to compete against each other. It is\ncommon practice to allow only 3 or 4 shoots (offsets) to develop into plants.\nThe rest are removed in spring and used for propagation. These should be\nremoved even if you don\u2019t want them for propagation. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pruning flower buds<\/strong>: It isn\u2019t good to allow too many buds develop on a plant at once,\nas they won\u2019t all reach full size. There should only be 3 – 5 buds (depending\nupon the size of the plant) maturing at one time. This ensures that each bud\nwill grow to a good size. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sometimes all of the lateral shoots and buds are cut off to leave\nonly one main bud (known as the \u201cking head\u201d). This will then reach maximum size\n(in Italy these are very highly prized and fetch a premium price).  <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Renewal<\/strong>: Commercial growers usually replace the plants after 2 or 3\nharvests as their vigor begins to gradually decline after that. Home growers\nmay do this too, replacing a portion (20% – 33%) of their artichoke plants each\nyear. In this way you will always have vigorous young plants and will replace\nthem all every 3 – 5 years. However if you prize low maintenance more than high\nyield, you don\u2019t have to do this.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Problems <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Frost protection<\/strong>: In cold climates artichokes will be killed by hard frost if not\nwell protected. If you want your plants to survive the winter where the soil\nfreezes hard, then you will have to protect them in some way.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The usual way to protect them is to cut off the tops, leaving\nabout a foot of leaf (you can tie these together to protect the crown). You\nthen cover the plant with a thick 24\u02dd deep mulch and then cover this with a\ncold frame or cloche. The latter is important as it keeps them dry (they often\nrot from too much moisture). If protected in this way they may survive down to\n20\u02daF. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

This protection should be removed after the danger of hard frost\nhas ended in spring, but before the plants start <\/p>\n\n\n\n

growing again. This allows the soil to warm up.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In very cold climates, you could try digging the roots in fall and\nstoring them inside for the winter (what have you got to lose?). This is no\nmore difficult than it is for Dahlias, simply lift the root as the leaves die\nback, cut off all but a couple of inches of stem and brush off loose soil. The\nbest place to store them is in burlap sacks in a root cellar at 35 – 40\u02daF.\nAlternatively you could plant them in 5 gallon pots and keep them in a cold\n(but not freezing) garage.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Weeding<\/strong>: The plants should be weeded regularly when young and\noccasionally thereafter, as weeds may compete for water and nutrients. Of\ncourse the mulch will also help to suppress weed growth.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pests<\/strong>: I haven\u2019t found artichokes to be seriously bothered by disease\nor pests, but in some areas they can be severely affected. Slugs and snails\nappreciate the damp shade and numerous hiding around the plants and sometimes\ndamage the buds. The larvae of the artichoke plume moth can ruin the buds.\nAphids can also be a problem, but are easily washed off.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Disease<\/strong>: Crown rot (Botrytis) fungus can be a problem in warm wet\nweather.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Artichoke curly dwarf virus<\/strong>: This\ndisease shows itself as curled leaves and small or misshapen flower buds. It is\nusually passed through infected offsets, rather than seed. If this becomes a problem\nremove all plants and start again from seed in a different location.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Harvest<\/strong>:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When<\/strong>: Perennial plants aren\u2019t harvested until the spring of their\nsecond year. Then the terminal bud is harvested as soon as it reaches full size\n(2 – 4\u02dd in diameter) and while the bracts are still tight against the bud.\nDon\u2019t <\/p>\n\n\n\n

wait until they start to open up or they won\u2019t be as good. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

If you miss the right harvest time, you should still cut the\nover-mature buds, as this stimulates the plant to produce useful secondary\nbuds. If a bud is left to mature it will cause the plant to waste energy making\nunwanted seed. After the terminal flower buds are removed, more will be\nproduced on side shoots. In this way a single plant will produce a whole series\nof buds for several months (these will gradually get smaller as food reserves\nare diminished). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

You should remove all of the flower buds as they are produced,\neven if they are not usable. If you leave any on the plant, it will waste\nenergy making seeds and may even die. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

How<\/strong>: The buds are cut with a knife, leaving at\nleast an inch of stem. Handle them carefully after harvest as they are easily\ndamaged.  In Italy they commonly<\/p>\n\n\n\n

cut artichokes with longer stems as the\ninterior is edible too.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Storage<\/strong>: The buds are best used fresh and start to\ndeteriorate in flavor as soon as they are picked. They can be stored in the\nfridge in a plastic bag for up to two weeks. \nA fresh artichoke is squeaky when squeezed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

If you are suddenly overwhelmed with artichokes you can freeze the\nprepared hearts (or can them).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

After\nharvest care<\/strong>: After\nthe last buds have been cut in early fall, the plant may be cut down to ground\nlevel and fertilized and mulched (compost does both at once). This will\nencourage it to regenerate itself and produce new buds for next year. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Seed\nsaving<\/strong>: Saving artichoke\nseed is easy enough, but it is rarely done because they are normally propagated\nvegetatively. Allowing a plant to produce seed will weaken it, by causing it to\ndivert energy away from vegetative growth.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Artichokes produce seed readily, as one flower can pollinate\nanother on the same plant (though not itself). They will often self-sow if\ngiven the opportunity and volunteers can even become a pest. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

If you live in an area where it is classified as a noxious weed,\ndon\u2019t let the seeds fly away.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Unusual\nGrowing Ideas<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ornamental<\/strong>: If space in the intensive vegetable garden\nis limited you could put these space hogging plants in the ornamental garden.\nTheir blue\/purple flowers are quite spectacular, though of course they are\nrarely allowed to appear.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Containers: <\/strong>It is possible to grow artichokes in large containers and they can\nmake striking ornamentals. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Wild garden<\/strong>: The artichoke is\nindependent enough to be planted in a vacant corner and left to grow itself. You\njust have to give it enough care to keep it productive.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Varieties<\/strong>: <\/p>\n\n\n\n

These can be divided into those that are used for perennial\ngrowing and those that are suited to growing as an annual.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Perennial artichokes<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

These can be divided into the large globe types and the smaller\nspiny types. I think I got the varieties right, but this is a confusing group. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Globe types<\/strong> <\/strong>– These are the familiar artichokes we see in\nmarkets.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Green Globe – The most\nimportant commercial American variety.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Imperial Star <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kiss of Burgundy – Tolerates more heat and cold than other varieties. It isn\u2019t easy\nto find.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Spiny types<\/strong> – In Italy they eat a lot of spiny artichokes, which produce smaller\nbuds and are often purple tinged. They look more like wild plants and are more\ntender and better flavored.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Violetta di Albenga –\nAlso has purple buds.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Annual artichokes<\/strong> – These varieties will produce\nuseful buds in their first year. They need less exposure to cold weather (for\nvernalization) to trigger flowering.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Imperial Star – The most commonly grown annual type.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Grande Beurre – Very large heads, but isn\u2019t easy to find..<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kitchen use <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

If insects get in between the bracts soak the bud in salt water\nfor 10 minutes to get them out before cooking.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The traditional American way to cook an\nartichoke is to cut off the stem and the top of the head and then trim back the\npoints of the scales. The heads are then boiled in salt water for about 30\nminutes (don\u2019t overcook them). They are then left upside down to drain and are\nserved with butter or other dressing. They can also be steamed or fried. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The traditional American way to eat an artichoke begins by pulling\noff the individual bracts and stripping off the tender end with your teeth.\nWhen you have finished these, you are left with the best part at the end, the\nheart which is one of the most delicious foods in the whole vegetable kingdom.\nIt was almost inevitable that such a sensuous food as an artichoke heart would\nbe considered an aphrodisiac.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Any cut artichoke\nsurface will turn gray, so they are often dipped in cold water and lemon juice\nto prevent this. You should also avoid cooking artichokes in aluminum or iron\npans as it will discolor them.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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