{"id":1270,"date":"2019-09-02T07:04:54","date_gmt":"2019-09-02T07:04:54","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/greenmanpublishing.com\/?page_id=1270"},"modified":"2019-10-07T02:17:34","modified_gmt":"2019-10-07T02:17:34","slug":"quinoa","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/greenmanpublishing.com\/index.php\/2019\/09\/02\/quinoa\/","title":{"rendered":"Quinoa"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Chenopodium quinoa<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Introduction<\/strong>: Quinoa (pronounced keen-wa,) has been cultivated in its native\nAndes mountains for 6000 years and was a staple food of the Incas. They looked\nupon it as more than simply a food crop, it was also considered a sacred grain\n(the name means mother grain). It was believed to give a person special\nendurance (and even heightened psychic abilities) above that to be expected\nfrom its nutritive qualities.  As with\namaranth, the Spaniards suppressed its growth as symbolic of pre-conquest\nculture, so its use declined.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Quinoa is sometimes referred to as a pseudocereal (along with\namaranth and buckwheat), as it is grown as a grain crop, but isn\u2019t a member of\nthe grass family. In recent years it has become hip and trendy and the price\nhas risen considerably as a result (like food, nightclubs, clothes, property\nand everything else). In consequence it now costs up to 3 times what it did a few years ago. Ironically this\nmeans that peasants in its homeland can no longer afford to eat it (they sell\nthe grain and use the money to buy cheaper food!)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ease of\ngrowing: <\/strong>Quinoa is an\nundemanding plant that is closely related to a common garden weed. It is fairly\neasy to grow and can do well in conditions that don\u2019t suit most other crops. It\ndoes need a suitably cool growing environment though, and you need to use a\nsuitably adapted variety (some old varieties prefer to grow at high altitude). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Though quinoa is a fairly new crop in North America, it has big\npotential as a garden crop for the future when greater self-sufficiency may be\na goal.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Crop\nvalue<\/strong>: <\/strong>Quinoa is that rare commodity a starchy, high protein grain that\ncan easily be raised and processed on a small scale (it is the best temperate\nclimate substitute for rice). If the growing situation is right, quinoa can be\nan outstanding crop for food self-sufficiency. It is productive, nutritious,\neasy to grow and requires relatively little processing. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nutritional content<\/strong>: Quinoa is one of the most well balanced and nutritious of all\ngrains. It contains from 7 – 22% almost complete protein (said to be similar to\nthat of dried milk), with a better balance of amino acids than almost any\nvegetable food. It even includes lysine which is missing from most vegetable\nproteins. It also contains vitamin E, several B\u2019s, calcium, iron magnesium,\nmanganese, potassium and zinc. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The seed is a major source of energy, with almost 1700 calories\nper pound.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The leaves are rich in vitamins A and C, as well as calcium and\niron (and some less desirable oxalic acid).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Climate<\/strong>: Though quinoa originated in tropical latitudes, it doesn\u2019t have\nthe needs of a tropical plant. It is actually a mountain plant and grows best\nin fairly cool climates. It doesn\u2019t like very hot weather and doesn\u2019t set seed\nvery well at temperatures above 90\u00b0F. It has the potential to be an important\ncrop for Canada and the northern U.S.A. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Quinoa prefers cooler temperatures than amaranth (another Incan\nstaple) and so was the main grain crop at higher altitudes. It is well adapted\nto the high levels of UV light and daily temperature extremes found in high mountains.\n<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The growing plants can tolerate light frost (to 30\u00b0F), and when\nseed is ripe and the plants are dying back they can survive temperatures as low\nas 20\u00b0F. As a (high altitude) tropical plant it needs short days to start\nflowering, though modern cultivars don\u2019t show this somewhat awkward trait very\nstrongly. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
About Quinoa <\/strong>  

Seed facts<\/strong>
Germ temp: 45 (50 – 55) 65\u00b0F
Germination time: 3 – 7 days
Viability: 5 – 7 years
Germination percentage: 70%+  

Planning facts<\/strong>
Hardiness: Half hardy
Growing temp: 50 (60 – 70) 90\u00b0F
Plants per sq ft: 1
Direct sow: 2 weeks after last frost
Days to harvest:
     90 – 120 days – seed
     40 – 60 days – greens
Height: 4 – 6 ft  

Harvest facts<\/strong>
Yield per sq ft: 1 – 2 oz
Yield per plant: 1 – 2 oz  
<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table>\n\n\n\n

Soil<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

pH:\n5.0 (6.0 – 7.0) 8.5<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Quinoa will grow well in any soil so long as it is well-drained,\nbut it will be most productive in a light fertile loam. It is extremely\nadaptable and in South America it is often grown on very poor, marginal soils\nthat are wet, dry or very alkaline (8.5) or acidic (5.0). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Soil preparation<\/strong>: This fast growing plant likes nitrogen, so give it 2\u02dd of compost\nor aged manure and an organic fertilizer mix. It also likes phosphorus.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Planning<\/strong><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

When<\/strong>: Quinoa needs up to 4 months from planting to harvest, so is\nusually planted in spring, starting 2 weeks after the last frost date (the soil\nmust be at least 45\u00b0F). The latest date for planting is determined by counting\nback 4 months from your first fall frost. Don\u2019t wait too long to plant, or it\nwon\u2019t have time to mature before cold weather arrives.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Where<\/strong>: Quinoa needs full sun for highest productivity. It doesn\u2019t grow\nwell in shade <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Planting<\/strong><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Direct\nsowing: <\/strong>Quinoa is usually\ndirect sown, because you need a lot of plants and it germinates well in cool\nsoil (it germinates best at 45 – 55\u00b0F). In fact if the soil is much above 65\u00b0F\nit often doesn\u2019t germinate satisfactorily (I wondered why it didn\u2019t germinate\nin my greenhouse!) Plant the seed \u00bc \u2013 \u00bd\u02dd deep, either by lightly broadcasting\nor in rows. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The seed germinates quickly, so you can soon see if any areas have\npoor germination. If this is the case then sow more seed to fill in.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A problem with broadcasting quinoa is that the seedlings look\nexactly like those of the weed lambs quarter. This makes it hard to know what\nto take out and what to leave in. The best solution to this is to plant in\nrows, so you can just remove everything that isn\u2019t in the predetermined line.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Thinning<\/strong>: Quinoa is usually planted more closely than the final spacing\n(perhaps 3\u02dd apart), to ensure a good stand. You can then thin at your leisure\nto achieve the desired spacing. As a bonus you can eat the plants you remove as\ngreens (they are good).  <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Spacing<\/strong>: The plants are spaced from 8 – 18\u02dd apart, depending upon the\nvariety and the size of plant required. Some varieties can get quite tall (5 –\n8 ft). If you want to plant in rows, put the plants 6 – 12\u02dd apart, in rows 18 –\n24\u02dd apart.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Some experiments suggest that the closer spacings (3 – 4\u02dd in row\nwith 24\u02dd between rows) can produce higher yields, earlier and more uniform\nmaturation and plants with single unbranched heads. Of course these traits are\nwell suited to mechanical harvesting. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Care<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Watering<\/strong>: Quinoa has a strong root system and is naturally quite drought\ntolerant, so it doesn\u2019t need a lot of water (it can produce a good crop with as\nlittle as 10\u02dd). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Generally there is enough water in the soil for early growth and\nas it gets bigger you only need to irrigate if it gets very dry (which is\nusually later in the season). More water results in bigger plants, but this\ndoesn\u2019t necessarily translate into higher yields (it may also cause greater\nseedling mortality).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Weeds<\/strong>: The plants grow fairly slowly when young and will need weeding\nregularly (planting early can reduce weed problems). Once they reach about a\nfoot in height, they are able to take care of themselves. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mulch<\/strong>: This helps to conserve soil moisture, keeps the soil cool and\nkeeps down weeds. However older plants don\u2019t really need it as they shade the\nsoil and suppress weeds themselves. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Problems<\/strong><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pests<\/strong>: Quinoa is bothered by the same pests as its\nrelatives chard and spinach. Armyworms, caterpillars, flea beetles and aphids\nsometimes attack the plants, but generally these vigorous plants will just keep\non growing and aren\u2019t greatly affected. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

When I planted quinoa in Western Washington it was plagued by leaf\nminers (which also attack lambs quarters) and apparently this is common in some\nof the eastern states. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Happily birds don\u2019t usually go for the seeds because they are\nprotected by their coat of bitter saponins (though persistent rain may wash\naway some of this defense).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Disease<\/strong>: When grown on a field scale, quinoa is sometimes affected by <\/p>\n\n\n\n

the same viruses and other diseases that affect chard and spinach.\n<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Rain<\/strong>: Heavy rain when the seed is mature can sometimes cause it to\nsprout. In this situation it should be harvested and dried as quickly as\npossible. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Harvesting<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

When<\/strong>: Quinoa is usually harvested when the leaves start to die back.\nIn some areas this may be after the first frosts (this doesn\u2019t harm the ripe\nseed heads). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

You can tell when the seed is ready because it will pop out when\nyou rub the tops. If you can just about dent a seed with a fingernail it is\nfully ripe.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

How<\/strong>: In dry weather you can gather the seed by bending the heads over\na bucket and gently rubbing the loose ripe seed into it. The seed doesn\u2019t all\nripen at the same time though, so you may have to harvest the primary heads\nfirst and come back a couple of weeks later for the rest. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

You can also cut the entire seed heads and leave them in a dry\nplace (on a screen with good air circulation) to dry out fully. You then have\nto loosen the seed from the heads by any threshing means possible. This is\nfairly easy, as it isn\u2019t tightly held. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The separated grain can then be cleaned by screening and\nwinnowing. Finally it should then be dried even more (it must be fully dry for\nstorage).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Leaves<\/strong>: The seed is not the only part of the plant that is edible. The\nyoung leaves can be used as a potherb like the related giant lambs quarters and\nspinach. It is not a good idea to take leaves from grain producing plants, but\nyou can use any plants that have to be thinned out (and unwanted volunteers). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Storage<\/strong>: The dry seed can be stored in a rodent proof container in a\ncool, dark, dry place. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Seed saving<\/strong>: If you are growing quinoa for seed, then saving seed for\nplanting isn\u2019t very difficult. Just set aside some of the seed you have\ncollected. It is generally self-pollinated, but some degree of\ncross-pollination may occur. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

If you want to be sure to keep a variety pure, you should probably\njust grow one variety. If you don\u2019t particularly care about purity, just grow\nwhatever kinds you can find and save seed from your best plants. Do this for a\nwhile and you can create your own locally adapted variety (I think this is the\nbest approach). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Quinoa seed is fairly small and you don\u2019t need a lot for planting.\nA pound of seed is enough to plant an acre of land.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Unusual growing ideas<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ornamental<\/strong>: Quinoa is quite attractive and some varieties have found their\nway into the purely ornamental garden. Their value for this is somewhat limited\nbecause you need a lot of them if you want to grow much grain. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Varieties<\/strong><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The main thing that has been holding quinoa back in this country\nhas been a lack of suitably adapted varieties (many weren\u2019t well adapted to\nNorth American conditions). This is changing and there are now quite a few\navailable and more are being developed (though they may not be easy to find).\nThe grains may be yellow, red orange, purple or black. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Some growers seem interested in its ornamental qualities and are\nselecting for bright colored flower heads.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Brilliant\nRainbow<\/strong> – Multi-colored<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cherry\nvanilla<\/strong> – Pink and cream<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Red\nHead <\/strong>– Bright\nred seed heads.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Faro\n<\/strong>– One of the first varieties\nto be successful at low altitude.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cahuil\n<\/strong>– Another of the first\nvarieties to be successful at low altitude.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Temuco<\/strong> – Orange seed heads. Works well in wetter climates.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kitchen use<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Leaching<\/strong>: The seeds have a bitter coating of saponins which must be\nremoved before they can be eaten. Don\u2019t do this until you want to use the grain\nthough, as it keeps better if unwashed. There are several ways to leach the\ngrain.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The simplest way is to soak the seed in water for several hours,\nchange the water and soak for several more hours (agitating the water can speed\nthis up). You then rinse them until the water is no longer foamy. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

You can also put them in a blender at low speed and keep changing\nthe water until it is no longer foamy. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

It\u2019s been suggested that you could put the seeds in a muslin bag\nand run them through the cold cycle of a washing machine. Saponins are a kind\nof detergent and will foam up if agitated in water, so maybe you could wash\nsome clothes at the same time! <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The seed you buy is white because the saponins that give it a\nyellow color have been washed out.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Using<\/strong>: The leached seeds need no further preparation, they are ready to\ncook. This is usually done by simmering one cup of grain in 2 cups of water for\n15 minutes until it is soft. It can also be added to soups and stews. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The seed can also be ground to flour and mixed with wheat flour\nfor baking. The Incas even made beer from it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The young leaves can be eaten as a salad or green vegetable.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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